home Dogs DIY dog cage

DIY dog cage

Materials and tools needed to make a do-it-yourself dog kennel

In order to make a booth with your own hands, you must use environmentally friendly materials, it is best to use a tree (conifers). For construction, lining is used, 12.5 mm thick (outer cladding), as well as fiberboard, chipboard, plywood and floorboard. You will also need bars in sizes 100100, 4040 and 10050. To create external corners and decor of the booth, use a wooden corner, as well as a symmetrical plinth and decorative slats.

To insulate the booth (and this must be done), use glassine, foam and mineral wool. The roofing material of the booth will be a galvanized profiled sheet or slate. It is not recommended to use bituminous shingles and roofing felt for these purposes, because out of habit, the dog will gnaw them and thereby harm its health.

The tools that we need in order to make a booth with our own hands are as follows:

  • Shovel
  • Hammer
  • Saw
  • Pencil
  • Building level
  • Roulette
  • Hacksaw or circular
  • Galvanized nails
  • Paint (pinotex)
  • Drying oil
  • Antiseptic impregnation for wood

Drawings of the dog house

As soon as the drawing, and therefore the type of housing for the dog, is chosen, we proceed to creating a booth with our own hands.

Do-it-yourself dog booth: step-by-step instructions for creating housing for a dog


Choosing the size of the dog booth

The first step is to determine the size of the dog booth. To do this, we determine what kind of dog you have in size. There are 3 types of dogs: small, medium and large. Accordingly, dachshunds and similar dogs are referred to representatives of small ones, German shepherds are medium-sized, and Caucasian shepherd dogs are large. Based on this classification, it is customary to make booths of the following sizes:

  • For small dogs: 700 550 600 mm (where the length is the first and the height is the last)
  • For medium dogs: 1200 750 800 mm
  • For large dogs: 1400-1000950 mm

The dimensions of the doghouse are allowed to be adjusted based on the dimensions of your own dog.

In order to correctly determine the size of the booth, you must adhere to this technique:

  • In order to correctly choose the width of the hole, measure the width of the dog’s chest and add 5-8 cm to this value.
  • The ideal height of the manhole is 5 cm below the height of the dog’s withers.
  • The height of the booth should be 5-8 cm at the withers.
  • The depth of the booth equals its height (except for some dog breeds, which dictate their own booth dimensions)

As mentioned earlier, the size of the booth can be slightly “moved”, but only to a greater value, especially if the booth is being built for a puppy.

During the construction of the booth, it is necessary to be aware of the following points:

  • Accommodation for the dog should be comfortable so that it can lie down, turn around or stand up.
  • The inlet should not be narrow, it is better, on the contrary, to slightly widen it for convenience
  • The booth must be covered with insulation so that the dog does not freeze in the winter.
  • The walls and roof must provide reliable protection from wind and precipitation.
  • The material for making the booth must be environmentally friendly so that the dog does not spoil its health while living in the booth (it is best to use wood)
  • The booth must be correctly located on the backyard territory (the side must not be windy, and the dog must see everything that happens on the territory)
  • The roof can be either single-pitched or double-pitched, there is no big difference
  • For convenience, make a small attic under the roof of the booth where you can put dog toys, dishes and other accessories.
  • The manhole must be built in the direction of the long wall so that the dog can more conveniently climb into the booth

If you are the owner of a large dog, it is recommended to build a booth in a dog enclosure, which is also not difficult to build with your own hands.

After we have decided on the size of the booth, we proceed to sketching a drawing, with the help of which it is easier to build a booth with our own hands.

How to make a dog kennel: step by step instructions

First of all, we cut the boards. In the event that the roof is single-pitched, the rear wall of the booth should be shorter than the front one so that the rainwater slope behind the booth.

We prepare wooden blocks for the booth frame. Better to make the length of the bars with a small margin.

We knock off the frame of the booth in accordance with the previously prepared drawing

We sheathe the frame of the booth from the inside with boards, it is immediately recommended to build a roof. So that the dog does not get hurt, the boards must be sanded.

We construct a manhole in the front wall of the booth, the ends of which also need to be processed

Now we turn to insulation: we must insulate the floors, walls and roof with foam, on top of which the outer wall of the boards will be fixed.

After that, we sheathe the outer part of the booth using the material of your choice (fiberboard, chipboard, lining, etc.). If materials permit, it is recommended to use wood siding.

We sew and insulate the frame of the dog booth

Next, we proceed to sealing cracks and seams, so that wind and precipitation do not worsen the cozy location of the dog. As a sealant, you can use slats, plinths, glazing beads, etc., the main thing is that they are wooden.

After sealing, we move on to the roof of the roof. For this, it is best to use slate sheets.

Well, in the end, it remains to treat the finished dog booth with an antiseptic and install the building on bricks or a pallet so that the floor does not rot on damp earth

That’s all, the do-it-yourself dog booth is ready! It remains only to paint it and install it in a suitable place.!

Photo of dog booths

Another similar article: do-it-yourself birdhouse for the garden, go in and read!

Floor covering in the aviary

There are a lot of options for materials for building a floor, the most popular of them are:

  • concrete floors;
  • cement strainer;
  • wood;
  • asphalt.

For example, a cement screed is a fairly cold surface, difficult to clean. But wood, on the contrary, besides being a natural material, it will calm the dog and will not create additional coolness. Wood can be used purely for sheathing floors built from other materials.

When choosing wood, it is important to pay attention to its integrity, smoothness and absence of signs of decay or bugs. Before use, the tree is always treated from moisture, fungus and other factors. The less flexibility of the board, the better, it will help to avoid getting the dog’s claws into the gap formed due to deflection.

The floor should not lie directly on the surface of the ground, you will need to leave a gap of ten centimeters, and cover the soil with roofing material or concrete.

Booth construction

Another important point for resting the dog and warming the enclosure is the installation of the house. As a rule, the owners build a booth from boards or plywood, this is not so important. It will be useful to make sure that the roof is removed, so it will be much easier to clean the inside.

The opening in the booth is cut in a rounded shape, it is practical for the animal and reduces the penetration of cold. For the winter, a curtain is made of dense fabric so that snow does not blow into the booth and the heat is better preserved.

Sizing calculation

This is an extremely important factor that you need to think in advance so as not to embarrass yourself or your pet. To understand how to make an aviary as practical as possible, you will have to start with a drawing of the planned building.

The first thing to pay attention to is the physical parameters of an adult animal, and if there are several of them, then their number.

Consider an average one and a half meters aviary. A medium-sized dog or puppy will feel good in it. For an animal with more than 50 centimeters at the withers, it will be necessary to expand the aviary sometimes up to six meters. 65 cm at the withers. the reason for the construction of an eight-meter aviary.

In principle, any dog ​​will fit in a ten-meter enclosure, if there are several of them, then we add one and a half meters to each. As for the height, it must be borne in mind that the dog standing on its hind legs should not touch the ceiling in any way.

The following options for aviaries can be distinguished:

  • fully covered;
  • with the presence of several blank walls;
  • with a lattice wall;
  • with an insulated floor;
  • with a portable or permanent feeder.

If there are several blank walls in the aviary, then the open wall is mounted from metal rods. There must certainly be a door and on the territory you still need to arrange a feeder and a booth.

Aviary for a dog: options for stylish and beautiful fences for dogs (100 photos)

Large breeds of dogs give their owners not only aesthetic and spiritual pleasure, but also puzzle them with a considerable amount of care and maintenance. When a puppy grows up rapidly, almost every owner in one way or another is faced with the task of arranging an aviary for his one or more pets, if the living conditions allow the possession of such a design.

The size of the enclosure and its characteristics are governed by special rules and require careful planning at an early stage. In this matter, one cannot ignore the size of the pet, the character, its breed and the requirements for its content.

The need to build an aviary can reveal itself at the most unexpected moment. For example, if there may periodically be people on the site who, for some reason, are afraid of the dog, or she reacts negatively or too actively to them.

If you have an outdoor enclosure, you will not need to worry about this, you can always close the animal in it for a while, without bringing it inconvenience or stress. It will also be useful if there are spaces on the site that you don’t need to let the dog into, for example, flower beds, a pool or a recreation area with a barbecue.

There are such cases that the owners even acquire an aviary in the apartment. Building requirements regulate the need for the dog to have enough room for maneuver, food and water, a place where the animal can lie down to rest and more.

Crafts from driftwood for the garden. If there is a creative imagination, then flowerpots can be made of snags and decorate a flower bed with them, and even see such strange creatures in them. There are also ideas for the garden, they are gradually accumulating, like the driftwood themselves, and I hope that interesting crafts will appear in the garden too.
Look, these horses and the dog are made of ordinary snags, this is an artistic look. Even a frame for a mirror or photo can be beautifully decorated with a variety of swirls and sticks. Not quite usual, but original and exclusive.

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Start of construction

If the necessary space that can be given to the animal is available, but there is not enough money or there is a desire, you can build the structure yourself.

It is important to initially determine the exact location and dimensions of the future aviary. Do not forget about the convenience for yourself and your pet.

On private territories, it is better to install an aviary close to the house so that the dog can observe what is happening, the pet should not be lonely, he should not be nervous, otherwise you will listen to howling and unreasonable barking around the clock.

It is also not recommended to set the dog walking area along the fence adjacent to the road. Every person passing by, or a passing car will disturb the dog, regardless of whether she sees them or not, they are especially interested in their freely walking nearby animals, in addition, the pet can scare someone or try to run away.

Experienced dog owners and veterinarians recommend arranging the enclosure so that it is located in the area of ​​the gate, from where the house is visible, but there is no direct adjacent to the street.

It is also useful to plant shrubs along the structure to protect against gusts of wind, which in hot weather will additionally create shady areas, and this is very important for large animals.

With a thoughtful approach, the design will turn out to be reliable and there will be no need for alteration. The animal will feel comfortable, which is also important for the owner who is attached to him.

Wall installation

It’s time to talk about what to make an aviary from. The wall serves as an obstacle for the pet, so that he cannot leave the territory without your desire, and also protects him from wind, bad weather and the scorching sun, and the dog also needs at least one lattice wall for contact with the environment and observation.

Nails cannot be used to mount the walls, since the animal can pull them out, it is better to use self-tapping screws. In order to save money, it is not worth replacing the grill with a mesh, not only can the dog break it, it can also get hurt by it, as it will bite it.

For an adult large individual, a distance of 10 centimeters between the rods is suitable, for small ones. less. The main thing is that the dog’s head cannot get stuck in the grate.

The door should also be located on the side of the grate so that the dog and owner can see each other when opening the enclosure. Naturally, a bolt or lock is installed on the door, which the dog cannot open.

Roof installation

You can also get fresh ideas from videos and photos of dog enclosures. But there are still general rules. When designing, you need to think in advance about snow melting in winter and water runoff.

The easiest way is to build a gable roof from one of the materials, suitable:

  • ordinary slate;
  • metal tile;
  • corrugated board;
  • soft roof.

The latter is made of bituminous shingles, which save well from precipitation, are wear-resistant and soundproof. The roof slope is designed towards the drainage system, in order to avoid the formation of puddles around the enclosure.

When installing a roof, it is best to leave a third of the space uncovered, this will provide a sufficient amount of lighting and will not completely isolate the animal from the natural environment.

Note that the booth should be somewhere in the corner, completely covered with a roof. Firstly, it will keep both the booth and the dog dry, and secondly, it will prevent the dog, having climbed onto the booth, jump out onto the roof or onto the street.

Do-it-yourself dog bed: photos and patterns

General Tips

  • Denim, nylon, cotton and linen, flock, plush, fleece and velor, faux fur or satin. As a filler. synthetic winterizer, foam rubber, batting, woolen cloth, holofiber, fluff. Almost any material is suitable for a bed. But keep in mind that your pet will dig, bite and stretch the fabric. a strong, wear-resistant material will last longer;
  • Use strong threads and reliable hardware. If your dog has a habit of gnawing sticking out / hanging things, do not decorate the bed with beads, bows, ruffles, etc.;
  • Sew the pillow into the cover for easy cleaning. The bottom does not need to be made too soft and voluminous. soft sides and pillows are enough for the pet to rest like a king;
  • Before you make a bed for your dog, measure your pet again and think about where its bed will be. This will help determine the size of the berth and the shape of the bed;
  • Consider the nature and degree of hairiness of the dog. Heat-loving sissies have high sides and a thick mattress. Curious activists. low sides so as not to limit the view. A pet in a rich fur coat will be hot in a fur lounger.

Patterns and process description

There is nothing difficult to sew a lounger from several parts. For example, from a rectangular bottom and four stripes for the sides, this is the standard version, uncomplicatedly convenient and suitable for dogs of any size:

But you can cut the most painstaking and difficult part of the work. stitching the parts together. You will have to devote a little more time to cutting, but cutting out is easier and easier than cutting and stitching. The picture below shows how to sew a lounger (rectangular or square with sides) using just one piece:

  • Cut out two rectangles from a solid canvas. To find out the dimensions, add the height of the sides (from 4 sides) to the desired dimensions of the berth;
  • Cut off the corners as in the picture. Or leave it if the density of the filler allows you to make a fold;
  • We sew parts along the perimeter of the bottom, on three sides. We put the filler in the resulting “”, sew up the last side of the bottom;
  • We fill the sides, we sew. We get a rectangle with pot-bellied protrusions;
  • In the corners we insert zippers with clamps or drawstrings. The clasp tightens the edges and raises the sides vertically. the lounger is ready! When it’s hot, the cozy lounger can be turned into a mattress by lowering the sides.

If you tightly sew the joints in those places where, according to the idea of ​​the lightning, you get an ordinary rectangular bed with sides from one part. If you do not cut out the corners and do not raise the sides, you get a cozy lounger-mattress:

Option 2, removable with elastic

The following pattern for a dog bed seems more complicated, but in reality everything is very simple. It turns out an option with a pallet, which can be used as a wooden or plastic box. And even a tight box is suitable for small dogs. You can paste over it with tape in several layers. the cardboard will last longer. It will turn out like this, but in a rectangular shape:

Wide ribbed sides will hide a box or box completely, so you don’t have to look for something visually decent. Before making a sunbed, make sure that the selected box is not too tight for the dog. soft sides will reduce the space. Now measure the box. bottom length / width (inside) and side height. The outer sides of the lounger should be slightly longer, because the assembly on an elastic band eats up a couple of centimeters. We transfer the pattern to the fabric, you will need two parts.

  • We sew the bottom on three sides, lay it with filler, sew it up;
  • We fill with padding polyester (or whatever you like better) the inner walls of the lounger, sew it up. Now the outer walls are sewn up too. The longitudinal seam between the inner and outer walls will allow the cover to bend without clumping the filler and fabric.
  • We sew the joints of the sides to make a cover. We put it on the box, insert an elastic band and pull it so that the edges of the bed fit snugly against the sides of the box, but the cover, if desired, could be removed without breaking the elastic.

Oval or round loungers are even easier to assemble. Again two details. two identical circles / ovals. Detail size: sleeping area height of the sides.

  • We lay the bottom with filler and tightly sew the two parts together, along the inner circle;
  • We fill the side and sew, passing an elastic band or lace along the edge of the outer circle. If you divide the board into “s” (sewn with transverse seams at an equal distance), the bed will turn out to be more voluminous and softer;
  • We tighten the elastic by lifting the side. Done!

Quality materials in the construction of a rabbit cage. above all

DIY rabbit cages (48 photos): how to create comfort for eared pets

After buying a fluffy pet, it is very important to create comfortable conditions for its existence.

Experienced rabbit breeders should know how do-it-yourself rabbit cages are built. Only in this case can you be sure that eared pets will not be endangered by low-quality materials or improper manufacturing process. There are no particularly specific conditions for keeping rabbits, one has only to take into account that their wild counterparts live in ordinary burrows. Since there is nothing complicated in how to build a rabbit cage with your own hands, there is no, even novice rabbit farmers can do it.

Cell constituents and materials used

Any cage designed for rabbits must be equipped in a certain way. It must contain the following parts:

  • The frame and supports, on which the whole structure rests, are made of wood blocks. In order for rabbits to be protected from rodents, cats and dogs when kept outdoors, it is worth placing their cage at a height of about 70 cm from the ground.
  • The walls are made of plywood, board or mesh. For beauty, you can decorate the walls from the outside with plastic or wooden slats. For the convenience of caring for the cage in the front part, two doors are made (one from the mesh, the other from the board).
  • The floor is most often made of slats or mesh. Some rabbit breeders arrange a solid floor, only in the back they put a net to remove waste through it. There are adherents of different materials who learn from their own experience what is best for animals kept in different conditions.
  • The roof is most often decorated with the same material as the walls, and to protect from environmental conditions when kept outdoors, you can install an additional covering from any roofing material.

To protect against rodents, cats and dogs, the shelter of rabbits is located at a height of 70 cm from the ground

It is not recommended to use metal when creating rabbit cages. In the heat, the iron heats up, which is inconvenient for the animals, and in the cold they can easily freeze to such a coating. Even when the simplest do-it-yourself rabbit cage is being created, you need to make sure that all the details are smooth and not traumatic. Any defects in the mesh should be eliminated, and the tree should be sanded with sandpaper.

Even an inexperienced amateur rabbit breeder can build such a cage with his own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages

There are a number of positive aspects in purchasing such a kind of home for your beloved pet.

  • If a small puppy is kept in a cage, then he needs it to ensure his own safety. In each apartment there are objects that he himself can spoil (tear, gnaw, throw). The owner will not be able to control the baby’s movements every second.
  • When an animal is accustomed to living in a house cage from an early age, it will not subsequently spoil your furniture, for example, chew it. Such a dog will not scratch shoes or wallpaper, tear the curtains to shreds and much more. This form of keeping a pet disciplines him, he learns to the correct peculiar demeanor in your apartment. Do not forget that a small puppy should not be left in a confined space for a long time. It should be placed in a closed cage for 3 hours a day, until it grows up (up to 5-6 months). It is not recommended to leave the dog in the enclosure for more than 6 hours.
  • A smart pet, as you know, almost never goes to the toilet in the same place where it sleeps and eats. Accustomed to walking, it will wait for its owner and happily go out for a walk. The exception is small puppies, who should be taught to walk in the litter box from a young age or allowed to move around the apartment in those rooms where you think it is possible for them to be. In this way, a dog placed in a cage house forms a daily routine, time for eating, walking and rest.
  • The cage plays an important role in keeping the apartment clean. If, for example, the pet was walked in rainy, damp weather, before washing the dog’s paws, it can be placed in the aviary for a while. The cage itself should have clean bedding. It needs to be washed from time to time.
  • If guests come to you who are afraid of dogs or are allergic to wool, then in order not to spoil the evening and protect strangers, the pet can be temporarily closed in its cage house.
  • Accustomed to the cage, the dog feels good when traveling. In the house, she is fenced off from other animals, for example, when it comes to traveling to exhibitions, or hidden from contact with people, especially with curious little children. There are animals who are afraid to travel in a car. By placing your dog in a crate, you will provide him with the opportunity to travel long distances without much stress. From the house, the pet will be able to observe the surrounding landscape and the main thing is to see its owner next to him.
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The main disadvantage of an apartment dog enclosure is the fact that an animal like a dog is quite mobile, being in a cage for a long time, it can become depressed. A growing pet needs constant movement for good skeletal muscle development. Putting a puppy in a cage for 10-15 hours is out of the question.

How to make?

To work you need the following tools and materials:

  • mesh netting with large or small links (depending on the size of your dog);
  • wooden or metal bars in the amount of 12 pieces;
  • furniture hinges, pliers;
  • plastic side;
  • construction stapler (staples);
  • welding machine, if you use it.

The cage manufacturing process includes the following steps:

  • choose the appearance of the cage according to ready-made drawings or make them yourself; decide on its dimensions;
  • a frame is made of wooden beams. it consists of 6 frames, four of which are intended for the cell walls, and the other two go to the roof and floor;
  • the finished base is covered with a net. it must be flawless, since any damage can subsequently injure the dog; it is attached to the beams with the participation of a construction stapler;
  • the bars are connected using hinges that ensure the assembly and disassembly of the cage; using them, they also fix the door;
  • the upper part of the mesh is covered with a plastic rim;
  • all frames are connected to each other and fixed with a stapler.

This concludes the construction of the cage. A completely metal cage is assembled in the same way, only instead of a stapler, all parts are joined together by welding seams, installing hinges in the area of ​​the door (or doors) of the cage.

Step-by-step instruction

  • First you need to take measurements of the pet.
  • Do-it-yourself drawings or just figure out how you would like to see the cell.
  • We take wooden blocks and build simple frames according to the given dimensions with our own hands in accordance with the drawings. You need to make 4 pieces for the walls and 1 each for the floor and roof.
  • From the inside with our own hands we tighten the frames with a mesh using a stapler.
  • On top of the fastening with our own hands, we close the edge of the mesh with a plastic rim.
  • We connect the frames to each other.
  • We fasten the side where the cage door will be with hinges.
  • We put the dog bed and its toys inside. Done!

Why does a dog need a cage?

A cage for a dog is necessary, firstly, because in many ways such an animal is a predator, and they just need a den. Surely you have noticed more than once how the dog is looking for a secluded spot under the sofa or closet. Secondly, even if the favorite is large, he is strong and formidable, but in many ways he is a child. The animal needs a personal space in which it will not be touched.

Therefore, cages for dogs are an appropriate thing both in the apartment and in the yards. over, many veterinarians believe that such a device can help with mutual understanding between the owner and the animal itself. So you can strengthen friendship, because who, if not the owner, lets the pet out of the crate? Who then feeds him deliciously? It is he, the owner.

Naturally, with such a content, a measure is needed: you should not keep the animal constantly in a cage. But in the case when you have a little extravagant who can mess up at night, why not lock him up. The crate is also necessary if the pet lives with a family where there is a small child.

Agree, protecting each other from extreme attention is very important

Crates are also required for transportation. Transporting the dog is a delicate thing, and the cage will allow you not to worry about the dog staining the whole car with its saliva or biting someone. There are many reasons why such a transportation vehicle would be appropriate, such as transporting a pet to exhibitions and competitions. And at the event itself, an exhibition cage will come in handy.

Making the cage ourselves

The cage can be made by hand. Surely on the farm there is an old fence net or an armored bed in order to make a home for your beloved animal with your own hands. over, cages can be expensive, so making a pet cage with your own hands is a good option to save money.

First, you should consider the size of the pet, so you can use the following recommendations:

  • With an animal weighing less than five kilograms, it is worth making a cage with dimensions of 56 x 33 x 41 centimeters. Such dimensions are well suited for Chihuahua, Yorkies, Toy Terriers and other crumbs.
  • An animal from 7 to 12 kg will feel comfortable with a crate of 62 x 39 x 48 centimeters. Basenji, Bigley, Pug, Fox Terrier. breeds for which a crate of this size is suitable.
  • For a pet weighing between 13 and 17 kilograms, build a device with dimensions of 77 x 49 x 53 centimeters, which is ideal for French Bulldogs, Cocker Spaniels, Mittelschnauzers and so on;
  • For huge favorites, it is worth building a crate with dimensions of 138 x 95 x 115 centimeters. A great device suitable for Neapolitan Mastiffs, St. Bernards, Great Dane and others.

Recommendations of dog breeders

Any of your pet is very sensitive to a positive attitude. In order for the dog to quickly get used to living in his new home, it is not recommended to close the cage at the beginning. This should be done 2-3 weeks after the dog has adapted to the new place. If the animal enters the cage without any problems and is there, then you should not try to remove it from there. Show concern, try to praise your four-legged friend for every correct action. This will help your dog feel comfortable and comfortable.

Use restraint when dealing with small puppies. Train them to go to the toilet in a certain corner of the cage by preparing diapers or highly absorbent fabrics for this. After being locked up for a long time, the dog needs to increase the walking time as compensation. Remember that any animal will not become organized and obedient on its own. From a young age, teach your pet to be disciplined, educate him.

For information on how to choose the right cage size for a dog, see the next video.

How to care?

The animal must be kept clean. You can have two beddings. If you wash one of them, the dog will not feel discomfort, because inside the cage it will be on a comfortable removable bed. It is necessary to ensure that water does not spill from the drinking bowl, and the dog does not end up in a puddle. After the pet has eaten, the bowls intended for food should be removed from the cage.

There should be favorite toys inside. You cannot punish an animal in such a house if it hid any of your things there. We need to calmly pick her up. If the dog is punished, then putting your pet back in the cage will be very problematic.

What are the cells?

Having asked themselves this question, for sure a lot of people will think about a huge box that stands in the house and takes up a lot of space. However, this opinion is erroneous, because there are many types of such structures. There are cages that are created for keeping animals at home, such, yes, they are huge in size. But there are carriages that are designed to make life easier for the owner while traveling. If you are the owner of large breeds, such transportation can be equipped with special wheels so that you can safely ride your dog to the car.

DIY DOG CAGE (Kumita sa Welding at Fabrication.)

You can also find an exhibition tent tent. ideal for traveling by car to nature or competitions. Such an exhibition cage-tent can serve not only as a home for a pet, but also protect it from heat or rain. Such an exhibition device is more expensive than other types of cages, however, the price in this case is fully justified.

We decide on the size and design

The correct booth for a dog is not built just like that: you need to know what size it is required, where and what size to make a hole, what is better to make and how to insulate.

First of all, they are determined with the size of the dog kennel. The easiest way is to focus on the size of your dog. The height of the dog booth should be 5-6 cm higher than the pet, in width / depth is approximately equal to the length of the body, plus 10-20 cm in length for the ability to stretch out the paws. In general, dog handlers have recommendations for the size of doghouses. They recommend making booths depending on the size of the breed. The data are presented in the table (width / length / height of the doghouse are given in centimeters):

Breed size Width, cm Length, cm Height, cm
For large dogs (kennels for Alabai, shepherd dogs) 120 one hundred one hundred
Medium breeds (husky, husky, labrador) one hundred 80 one hundred
Small dogs 80 60 80

If your pet does not exceed the average size of its breed, you should not increase the booth: it will be difficult for him to warm it up in winter. Please note that these are internal dimensions, if sheathing is planned, the dimensions are increased by the thickness of the walls.

What to build from and what to insulate

Most often, a doghouse is made of wood or wood-based materials. Wood is preferable. it keeps it cool in summer and warm in winter. In it, the dog will quite comfortably endure the winter if the boards are fitted tightly, there are no cracks, even with a single wall the wooden booth is warm. So that, by the way, the booth for the dog turns out without gaps, they use an edged board, sometimes even shrunken.

Concrete and brick booths are not the best choice: they conduct heat well, in summer it is too hot in them, in winter it is very cold. That is why dogs often prefer to spend the night in the open, and not in a brick kennel.

If wood is too expensive, use boards for the frame, and everything else can be made from OSB, fiberboard, plywood. If you use sheet wood material, you may need two layers of it: it is still much thinner than wood and, due to the presence of a binder, has better thermal conductivity (it retains heat worse). Therefore, in this case, you can think about insulating the booth for the winter.

Plywood doghouse: an example of insulation

You can insulate with any suitable material. You can use the leftovers from the construction of a house, a summer residence, a bath. It can be rock wool (as in the photo), foam or other material. When insulating with foam, do not overdo it: it does not allow air to pass through, and if you hang a curtain on the manhole, the dog will stop sitting in the booth: there will not be enough air for it. Therefore, either leave small gaps or provide some kind of air intake channel.

If we are to insulate, then the floor and the roof too. They are also made double, laying with the same insulation. Too large a layer of insulation should not be done: the dog itself can warm up well, besides, it has a decent fur coat. And for her, it is worse. a frequent sharp change in temperature than constant cold. If you want the dog to be warm, fill the kennel with straw for the winter: they will trample it where necessary, and throw away the excess. You need to change such a bedding twice per winter.

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For the winter, a dense fabric cut into rather thick strips is nailed over the manhole. Two strips cut into noodles are fixed with a shift of the cuts. So it turns out that the wind does not blow into the dog booth, and the entrance / exit is free. But some dogs do not immediately get used to this innovation and sometimes refuse to go inside.

The outside of the booths can be painted, but not from the inside. The canopy and the wall from the wind (preferably one deaf) are treated with antiseptics. There is no point in painting them. The main thing is to make the roof without cracks so that it does not flow inside and does not blow out.

A firewood shed or woodshed is easy to do with your own hands. How to read here.

Do-it-yourself doghouse: two photo reports video

When a dog appears in the house, the question of housing immediately arises: somewhere she must sleep and hide from the rain. Not everyone wants and can keep them in the house, because the kennel is required. A do-it-yourself dog booth is built, even without skills, in one day. Nothing complicated, but there are features.

When building a booth, you need to focus on the size of the dog

Do-it-yourself insulated dog booth

If we talk about drawings, but the animal does not need any “bells and whistles” and too large sizes. For them, this is a burrow, but it cannot be large, by definition, and it is difficult to heat excess volumes in winter. The booth was made with two windproof walls and a small canopy.

First, they made two pallets in size with supports on four square beams, then they connected them together. It turned out to be a podium, on which the floor boards were fixed. Legs in the design are desirable. the floor will not get wet.

Bars were fixed in the corners. At the junction, six pieces turned out: four for the kennel itself, two in front for the windproof walls. First, they made the inner lining, to which they fixed 7 cm of penoplex, then sheathed it on the outside. To prevent water from flowing into the walls between the boards, the gap was closed from above with a bar of suitable width.

When cladding a wall, to which the windproof wall adjoins, the boards were used whole. so the structure is more rigid.

The longest time we fiddled with the roof. I did not want to make it completely flat, so they made an insulated shield strictly in size, which was attached to a slightly rounded roof made of type-setting rails. At least it turned out without a slope, but due to the sloping shape, the water flows off without problems. Since it was still not possible to make hermetically sealed, a film was placed under the slats.

What is the width of the hole

There are recommendations regarding the width of the access hole. It is determined based on the width of the dog’s chest. Measure, add 5 cm, you get the width of the hole. The height depends on the height of the withers: you also add 5 cm to the measured value.For the puppy, first make a small hole. a little more than required, as it grows up.

The manhole in the doghouse is not located in the center, but closer to one of the walls. With such a structure, the dog will be able to hide from precipitation or wind behind a solid wall, curling up in a protected part. It is often suggested to divide the booth with a partition, making a kind of “vestibule” and sleeping area. But hiding in a fenced off compartment, the dog cannot control what is happening in the entrusted territory. Many conscientious watchmen really do not like to go there. Some, even in the most severe frosts, lie opposite the entrance, not wanting to leave the post. So, the option shown in the photo with a displaced access hole is optimal.

Another point: at the entrance to the kennel there should be a sill 10-15 cm high.It protects the dog lying in front of the entrance from wind and precipitation, prevents snow and rain from clogging inside.

Roof type

The roof in the doghouse can be pitched or pitched. Shed, preferable: not very large animals like to sit / lie on it. So they can control a large area.

Another point: since there is no heating in the booth, in winter the air in it is heated by the heat generated by the body. The larger the volume, the longer the kennel will warm up. The gable roof on the kennel just significantly increases this volume, without bringing any other benefit. If you want your dog to feel good, use a pitched roof.

If you don’t like it at all in terms of aesthetics, make a ceiling, and the roof itself is already on top. over, it is advisable to make it removable or folding. on the hinges. So it will be more convenient to carry out periodic cleaning and disinfection: organic residues are clogged in the cracks, in which fleas breed. It is from them that you will have to process the kennel from time to time.

The dog booth must have a raised floor. To do this, make legs at least a few centimeters high or knock down the frame, on which floor boards are laid directly.

In general, if possible, dogs prefer to spend time outdoors. Therefore, it would be nice to make a canopy in front of the doghouse or on the side of it. And to be able to sit / lie under it. make a flooring.

In this booth, not a hinged roof, but a front wall, which is also convenient when processing.

A booth from a bar for Alabai from a bar

Let’s say right away that a doghouse was built from materials left after the construction of the bath. She will also be placed next to it, because in appearance it should resemble the bath itself.

The basis of this dog booth was a drawing with the dimensions of the alabai booth. But since the dog is not an Alabai, the dimensions were made more modest. Adjustments were made to the design: a window was made in the side wall for viewing, and a door for cleaning was made at the back.

First, they built and painted a platform. from the remains of logs, which were cut and put together. Then the actual assembly of the doghouse began. First, in the workshop they planed, sawed, and the finished structure was taken out and installed in place. near the bathhouse.

The first crown was placed intact. It forms the sill and serves as a support for the entire structure. Then the timber was cut according to the scheme. Considering that the work experience was already there (the bathhouse was built), the work proceeded quickly.

Since it was supposed to make the roof a “house”, as in the bathhouse next to it, to keep the dog warm, they made a ceiling. A sheet of plywood was used for it. A dowel was made in the timber, on which a sheet of thick plywood cut to size was laid. Then they assembled and installed the roof shields.

They were not assembled according to the rules. the rafter system was not made. Since the roof is decorative, they assembled the shields, chipped them with the remains of soft tiles (they also remained from the construction of the baths), then they were connected and sheathed with gables.

Then the gables were sheathed with boards. The cracks were covered with boards. The dog house is ready. Handmade in half a day.

We are not quite Alabai and not Caucasian, but also not a very small dog.

Such a structure for a dog of this size will still be large. This kennel is designed for larger dogs. The situation can be saved only by a partition installed inside, reducing the width.

How to Make A Dog Crate / Kennel [ Indoor Furniture ]

Another do-it-yourself dog booth is made of OSB, covered with a professional sheet (insulation and inner lining are planned). The assembly process was filmed.

The subtleties of manufacturing

The choice of the size of the cage for songbirds directly depends on their size. For miniature birds, a small structure made of plastic or metal is suitable. It is best to choose a rectangular shape. The perches in such a cage are located at different heights, which will help its inhabitant easily move from top to bottom. In this case, the drinker and the container with grain are placed on the floor of the “dwelling”. It is better to make the tray retractable to make it easier to care for the cleanliness of the cage.

Round designs are no less popular. Large vintage checkers look very impressive. A similar birdhouse can be equipped with swings, perches and other bright accessories.

And also such a cage can be hung or conveniently placed on a hard surface.

For large birds, it is necessary to build an aviary cage. In most cases, the structure is made of metal. This model implies the presence of several tiers and a large door. Various devices are attached to the ceiling of the aviary (for example, perches, rings, and so on).

Step by step instructions

One of the simplest and most popular options for a homemade cage is a large wooden structure. The manufacturing process consists in the following steps.

  • Take a sheet of chipboard or plywood, from which the pallet and high sides are carefully cut out for it. Assemble the structure.
  • 3 frames are made of wooden slats, and then small holes are drilled in the slats for wire with a step depending on the size of the bird (so that it cannot get out).
  • The wire is passed through the holes over the entire area.
  • It turns out a rectangular structure consisting of wooden slats and wire.
  • The fourth frame with wire covers the top of the cage.
  • Each “edge” of the model is fixed with a wooden or metal corner.
  • In the middle of the cage, on the outside, a small door is created, which should open from bottom to top.
  • Accessories (perches, swings) are attached inside the structure.
  • The drinker and feeder are placed on the floor.

Thus, a spacious and safe cage for feathered friends is obtained, which will be dry and light.

Another simple option is a decorative mesh cage made with your own hands. The manufacturing process is quite simple. Description follows below.

  • Create a rectangular structure from large slats.
  • A pallet is made at the bottom of the model (thin plywood is suitable).
  • Then they take a construction mesh, cover the entire structure with it and fix it with self-tapping screws.
  • Next, a piece is cut out of the mesh around the perimeter of the cage and a roof is built.
  • All sharp and protruding parts are cut off. The ribs of the product are framed with metal corners.
  • After that, a small door is cut out, which will be closed with a hook from the outside.

When the “construction” work is over, all the necessary accessories are hung and laid out inside the cage, and then a feathered pet is launched into it.

Materials and tools

Finished products can be painted with water-based acrylic paints.

As for materials, first of all you should purchase:

  • metal mesh;
  • fasteners;
  • corners for the frame;
  • wooden planks.

Of the tools you may need:

  • drill;
  • soldering iron;
  • wire cutters.

DIY bird cages

Ornamental birds that live at home need a cage. It is a mistake to think that it will become a kind of “prison” for birds. Over time, they get used to their house and settle down in it. A great option is to make a do-it-yourself bird cage. To do this, you need to purchase all the necessary materials and tools.

How to equip?

In addition, from the old rattle it will turn out to make an original pendant for a vociferous friend. He will certainly be interested in a colorful and “noisy” thing. That is, the owner will not only be able to independently create a cage for his feathered pet, but also easily equip it.

How to make a bird cage with your own hands, see below.