home Birds DIY Parrot Aviary

DIY Parrot Aviary

Tools and materials

For work, you should prepare tools and related materials:

  • Pliers or separate pliers and pliers;
  • Drill with a screwdriver;
  • Long ruler or tape measure;
  • Emery cloth and file;
  • Confirmates or self-tapping screws for wood;
  • Pallet fittings (furniture handles).

parrot, aviary

Homemade plywood parrot cage.

The main materials for manufacturing are rigid mesh fabric and thick plywood or fiberboard (thickness 1-1.5 cm). As a lattice, a galvanized construction mesh (welded steel, with a mesh of 10×25 mm, wire thickness 2-3 mm) is well suited. Plywood or chipboard is selected in such a way that the thickness of the material makes it possible to connect the parts with screws.

The optimal plywood thickness is about 1 cm. not too thick or thin. For a sliding pallet, you can take simple thin plywood up to 0.5 cm thick.You can use used furniture parts.

To protect the room from food particles, which are often scattered by birds, it is advisable to install a side at least 10 cm wide on the lower part of the cage (near the feeder or around the perimeter ).Traditionally it is made of transparent plastic: this way it does not interfere with observing the bird and does not shade the feeder.

How to make an outdoor parrot enclosure

With the arrival of summer, many parrot owners are thinking about moving their feathered pets to the street. However, fresh air and sunny bathrooms are much better than a stuffy room.

If there are no problems with small parrots, it is enough to take the cage outside, then with medium and large parrots, in view of the bulkiness and heavy weight of their home apartments, some problem may arise.

How to decorate a cage with your own hands?

The best decor for a cage is a tree branch with forks. It will not only give the interior a resemblance to the natural habitat of a bird, but also replace the perch. But such a large part can be installed only in a spacious cage, where it will not prevent the parrot from taking off.

DIY budgies aviary

Outdoor aviary for parrots

However, everything is not so simple here, especially when it comes to parrots that are not tamed. The fact is that with the onset of cold weather, heat-loving parrots will need to be brought into a warm room, and this is where the problem arises with catching them from the outdoor enclosure. Especially if the enclosure is not spacious enough for a person to enter, but too big to catch parrots through the door.

In this case, it is advisable to make the aviary collapsible so that you can install a partition, disconnect part of the aviary and bring it into the house for transplanting parrots into their cage.

How to make your own parrot cage?

A simple rectangular cage is assembled from mesh parts: walls and ceiling. The floor is made solid, and for the convenience of cleaning, a sliding part is installed. a pallet. To make a bird house, you need to choose materials that are strong enough and safe for the feathered.

Important rules

When building a home for a pet, you need to follow the rules that will ensure its safety:

  • For small and medium-sized parrots (wavy, cockatiels, rosellas, lovebirds, etc.), the distance between the vertical bars of the lattice should not be more than 1-1.5 cm. The bird will stick its head into too wide holes and get stuck. For large rocks, a cell with a distance of 2 cm is suitable.
  • The thickness of the bar is selected depending on the size of the bird. Budgerigars will not be able to gnaw even the thinnest wire, but large breeds with a powerful beak (cockatoo, gray, macaw) can easily straighten out with a mesh up to 3 mm thick. The protruding ends can injure the pet.
  • All sharp edges of the mesh, which are formed during its processing or cutting, must be hidden. They can cause injury not only to the bird, but also to the owner.
  • Given the ability of birds to gnaw all wooden parts, it is better to choose solid wood (birch, oak) for perches.

In the indoor aviary

Breeding budgerigars in large groups facilitates the work of an amateur, as it fully corresponds to the biology of their nesting in free nature. For an amateur, this breeding method has its drawbacks, which I will mention below, but caring for birds in a common spacious room is much easier, and they give more offspring. A room for keeping budgerigars, in which an aviary can be built, can be a glazed veranda, a winter garden, a light closet or a chef dak with a window. There is no need to be afraid if the air temperature in these rooms drops below zero in winter. With good care, budgerigars will not be harmed by low temperatures. The main thing is that they should not be able to nest at this time, since at low temperatures the female sometimes cannot lay an egg. You can spend hours watching such a group of nesting budgerigars, studying their natural inclinations, habits and lifestyle.

When keeping a large group of budgerigars, it is advisable to build an appropriate size aviary from wooden planks, shaped iron or pipes, depending on what material you have at your disposal. The aviary is sheathed with a hexagonal or tetrahedral galvanized mesh with a wire thickness of 0.8-1 mm and a mesh size of 15X15 mm. The galvanized metal mesh is carefully inspected and the sharp-edged pieces of zinc removed to prevent injury to birds. To make it easier to observe the birds, the metal mesh is covered with black or gray oil paint (We can recommend covering the mesh with black Kuzbass varnish. Note. Ed).

Between April and October, the window pane in the room where the aviary is located is replaced with a metal wire mesh inserted into the frame, which provides a constant flow of fresh air. The aviary should have a door so that you can enter to clean and check the nests. At the bottom, at the very floor, they make another door through which food is given to the birds. A tray of water is placed through it.

The floor is sprinkled with a layer of clean river sand, and fresh green branches are fixed in the corner of the enclosure, positioning them so that budgerigars fly over the middle of the cage. Nests are attached at a distance of 10-15 cm from the ceiling, at the rate of two nests for a couple of birds. All nests are suspended at an equal height so that sociable budgerigars can see each other. Feed and drinking water are usually placed in front of the aft door so that the area is free of branches and birds do not contaminate the feed with droppings.

An automatic feeder (Fig. 6, a), through the glass of which the grain supply is clearly visible, is well justified in the aviary. Grain should be added as needed. Mixed grain or clean grain is fed through the control slot, and the husk is blown away by the air movement caused by the birds arriving and enters a receiver located under the trough. If desired, any home craftsman can make a feeder from planks and plywood with the number of compartments corresponding to the types of grain and mineral feed that are given to budgerigars.

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Figure: 6. Device for translucent eggs (a): 1. flashlight; 2. a conical bushing with a hole for an egg made of black paper; 3. black paper nozzle

Of course, an automatic drinker is also a must for budgerigars, especially in cases where the owner is forced to leave the house for a long time. For this purpose, an ordinary glass jar is used, in the wall of which a hole is drilled. The jar is filled with water, covered with a bowl or plate and turned upside down. As it is consumed in the basin, water is gradually replenished from the can and is kept constantly at the level of the hole (Fig. 6, b).

Figure: 6. Device for translucent eggs: automatic drinker and its cut (b)

With such a simple device, it remains only before leaving to give the birds the morning portions of the egg mixture and green food and put the crushed eggshell in a separate bowl.

Figure: 6. Device for translucent eggs: automatic grain feeder and its cut (c)

Although budgerigars are common birds, keeping too many birds in the same enclosure is not recommended because caring for them makes it difficult for the hobbyist. The size of the aviary is determined at the rate of 1 m 3 for each pair of birds; this means that no more than 12 pairs of budgerigars can be placed in an enclosure of 2X3 m and a height of 2 m. All birds are allowed into the enclosure at the same time and always the same number of males and females. An extra male will not bring harm, but a female that did not get a male often penetrates into other people’s nests, bothers incubating females, and sometimes even ruins other people’s clutches and destroys chicks.

Soon after placing the birds in the aviary, each pair chooses a nest box for itself, the males begin to look after the females and do not let them go a step further. Within two weeks, most of the females begin to lay eggs, and those that are still free groom the remaining males, showing their disdain for matrimonial life. However, in a short period, all females sit on the nests, and only males can be seen in the aviary.

Systematic checking of nests was discussed in the previous chapter. If there are more than six eggs in the nest, the unfertilized eggs must be removed to make it easier for the female to incubate. With fewer eggs, unfertilized eggs are left in the nest.

At about the same time, chicks begin to hatch, and therefore the nesting sites should be checked at least twice a week, because there are frequent cases of unreasonable death of chicks, and they must be removed. The time of bird ringing should also not be missed (see the chapter on offspring counting). If one female has too many chicks and the other has only one or two, the chicks are evenly distributed among the females. It happens that the first and, say, the fifth eggs are fertilized, there is a difference in the age of the chicks. ten days, and hence the danger that the older chick will crush the younger. In the previous chapter, some of the disadvantages of having chicks of the same age were mentioned, and yet, in exceptional cases, it is recommended that later hatched chicks be transplanted to another female whose chicks are about the same age as the foster.

Since there is always more space in the aviary than in the cage, budgerigars can be given various plants with unripe seeds, which the birds carefully examine and look for seeds to the last grain.

For an amateur, the emergence of chicks is the moment of the highest pleasure. A chick a little smaller than an adult budgie with big dark eyes will sit on a twig and look at the world around him in surprise. Most chicks fly nimbly on the first day and return to their place.

The male regularly feeds such chicks, the female takes care of the younger ones and lays eggs again.

Independent chicks can be transferred to a separate enclosure. It is interesting to observe the behavior of the chicks, especially when their younger relatives fly out of the nest and the older ones feed the younger ones. In theory, all chicks could be left together until the end of the breeding season, but young birds at the age of 3-4 months make attempts to nest, and this we must not allow. Therefore, the most reasonable thing to do is to transfer all chicks to a separate room, where there are no nest boxes.

In an aviary where several pairs of budgerigars are kept, it is sometimes difficult to stop the nesting process even after the chicks have been hatched from the second or third clutch. The matter is complicated by the fact that the chicks from the last clutch are at different ages and some of them cannot yet be removed from the nest. Therefore, it is necessary to remove the nests gradually one by one, but in the shortest possible time, so that the females do not penetrate other people’s nests and destroy the chicks located there.

Catching the chick we need in an aviary is not an easy task. This is done carefully using a net (We use nets with a nylon bag in our work. Note. Ed). The net of such a net should be made of very thin and soft wire so as not to injure the bird. One person cautiously frightens the bird away so that it sits on the net of the enclosure, where it is covered with a net. You can catch budgerigars in another (easier) way. One of the assistants stands at the switch and at the right moment, when you noticed where the desired parrot is sitting, and gave a signal, turns off the light. You just have to come up in the dark and take the bird with your hand. This entire procedure must be done quietly and calmly so as not to cause unnecessary commotion in the aviary.

At least twice a year, in the spring before hanging the nests and in the fall after the end of breeding (when the parents stop feeding the last chicks), all the birds are caught, examined and transplanted to another room. When examining, you need to pay attention to the physical condition of the birds, to the eyes and legs, and draw conclusions about their further use in breeding work. General cleaning is done in the aviary. The net, nesting places, all the premises and tools for caring for the bird are thoroughly cleaned, washed with water, scalded with boiling water. The room is disinfected with creosol or other means. And when the room dries out and is completely ventilated, the floor is sprinkled with clean river sand, perches are placed in the aviary, and fresh tree branches are attached to the walls. Aviary ready to move in.

An important point

To prevent the bird from scattering food, feathers, debris around the cage, you will need to install a transparent plastic side. It is advisable to make it around the entire cell. Suitable scraps of polycarbonate, in which you need to drill several holes for wire hangers.

Arrangement of an aviary for parrots

So where to start arranging an aviary? First you need to think about which accessories will come in handy:

    Perches. Their appearance depends on the size of the bird. For example, in a do-it-yourself aviary for budgies, it is enough to install 2 for each pet. One can be hung near the feeder, and the other. somewhere above. The perch should be conical in shape with ends of different thickness. Better to choose wooden products.
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  • For feeders and drinkers, an important condition is strength. These can be plastic or wood containers. But it is better to choose ceramic or stainless steel. Their edges must be carefully processed so that the parrot does not get hurt. You can choose any shape. The main thing is that the trough has low sides, and it itself is wide.
  • From toys it is recommended to purchase swings, ladders, mirrors. It is better to fix them in the central part of the aviary so that the bird does not get injured on the net. You can also hang bells.
  • Don’t forget about swimming. For these purposes, a plastic bath with a slightly rough bottom is suitable.

    How to make a foundation

    The foundation is needed in order to protect the parrots from rodents entering the enclosure. The workflow consists of 4 stages:

    • Dig a trench 30-40 cm deep.
    • Fill a large stone and gravel into the pit. Pour concrete next.
    • Now you need to make brickwork at a height of 20 cm.
    • In the last row, at a distance of 1.5 m from each other, put large bolts (vertically). A mesh or corners will be attached to them.

    To strengthen the foundation, a mesh with an anti-corrosion coating is laid in it. This must be done before the concrete is poured.

    Experts recommend making a sloped floor. Thanks to this, the disinfection liquid will drain off, and not accumulate on the surface.

    Outdoor aviary

    Unlike do-it-yourself parrot enclosures in an apartment, outdoor facilities require a lot of effort. It is necessary not only to pull the net and equip the bird house, but also to make a solid foundation for it.

    DIY parrot aviary for apartment and street

    The parrot aviary is a great option for comfortable housing for your feathered pets. However, its arrangement has a number of nuances. Aviaries have certain pluses and minuses. One of the significant disadvantages is the construction price. True, you can make an aviary for parrots with your own hands, the main thing is desire. Let’s understand the features of such housing for birds and what are the options for an apartment and a street.

    Door options

    Do-it-yourself parrot aviary should have 2 doors:

    • Large for cleaning;
    • Small in order to have access to a feeder and drinker.

    The doors can be stacked on top of each other. The little one should be at the bottom, because this is where food and water usually stand.

    You will also need wood to make doors. It is better to put the heck outside, otherwise the parrots will try to open it.

    Mesh types

    Covering the enclosure with a net, first of all, you need to think about the safety of parrots. There are several types of mesh. And not all of them are suitable for the job.

    • Stainless steel. The safest and most practical material. But it also costs much more than others.
    • Galvanized. Potential danger. But, despite this, it is often used to make cells. Low cost and long service life.
    • The iron mesh is safe. The only drawback is the rust that parrots can inadvertently eat.

    Also on sale is a metal mesh covered with plastic. But it has 2 drawbacks. The first is thick rods blocking the light. The second. birds can bite off plastic, which is fraught with poisoning.

    If the choice fell on a galvanized mesh, before use it must be thoroughly rinsed with warm water and vinegar and dried.

    All the pros and cons of the parrot enclosure

    Parrot enclosures have advantages and disadvantages. The first include the following items:

    • The bird has much more free space than in the cage. Thanks to this, she behaves more freely and more actively. And this has a beneficial effect on health.
    • As you know, parrots love communication. They will not get bored in the aviary, because several individuals can be settled there at once.
    • Outdoor aviary for parrots. an opportunity to increase the time of stay of birds in the fresh air in the summer. This means that they get enough vitamin D and strengthen the immune system. Plus, they will shed more easily.
    • One large aviary is easier to clean and clean than several small ones. This is convenient when keeping several birds at once.
    • The aviary is suitable for large parrots, which are contraindicated for a long period of time in a cramped cage. In a large “house” it will be easier for him to establish a regime and protect himself from unnecessary attention of the owner.

    And what about the disadvantages?

    • Birds can infect each other. If one of the inhabitants of the aviary gets sick, it is better to temporarily relocate him.
    • There is no way to trace whether all parrots eat the prescribed amount of fruits, vegetables, herbs.
    • Parrots living in a flock are harder to teach.

    Another disadvantage concerns reproduction. For breeding, you will have to equip a separate house. In it, they will be able to hide from their relatives, and it will be easier for the owner to observe the development of chicks.

    For some more disadvantages of aviaries in the apartment, see this

    The walls of the outdoor enclosure

    The average wall width is 3 m. The length can be freely selected. It depends on the number of parrots, as well as the size of the land. The ideal option is a height of 2 m. It is convenient to clean in such an aviary. Also, there will be no difficulties if you have to catch pets.

    There should be 2 mesh fences: internal and external. The outside will protect parrots from birds of prey that can injure them. The internal will become protection from small relatives that can bring diseases with them.

    The distance between the fences is 5-10 cm.The size of the outer cells should not exceed 50×50 mm.

    As mentioned above, the mesh is installed on pre-prepared metal bolts or posts. If necessary, overlap installation (20 cm). But in this case, you should pay attention to the processing of the edges.

    An outdoor aviary for parrots is equipped with a vestibule. He will not let the bird fly out at the moment when the owner enters. You can also put cleaning equipment there.

    To protect the birds from the cold, the leeward or northern side of their home is covered with plexiglass.

    The best place for an aviary

    Parrots in an aviary are possible on the street or in an apartment (house). In the second case, the bird house will take, of course, a lot of space. But using decorative elements, it is easy to make it an interesting and unusual part of the interior.

    There are several requirements for the placement of aviaries:

    • Lighting. If there is not enough natural light, you need to increase its amount using lamps.
    • In no case should the aviary be placed near heating appliances or household appliances.
    • The owner should be able to freely clean the bird’s shelter and feed the pets.
    • It is important that the bird house can be easily transferred, for example, to the balcony.

    Separately, it should be said about the aviary, which will stand on the street. There they will equip a place in which the birds will hide from rain and direct sunlight. It is also recommended to pay attention to the floor. It should be strengthened so that rodents do not dig a hole.

    Aviary for parrots

    A person often keeps pets or a bird in his home, for example, a budgerigar, which give the owner many joyful minutes. But where should the gray be placed? Indeed, in a cage, a bird will feel embarrassed and will not be able to fly.

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    Place of residence for a feathered pet

    After viewing numerous photos on the Internet, the owner comes to the idea of ​​the need to build an aviary for birds, especially since users of the worldwide network convince that it is not difficult to build an aviary for a parrot, a family’s favorite, with their own hands. But there are several issues that need to be resolved before taking action. You need to think about what kind of aviary you want to create.

    The aviary for budgies can be of two types:

    • Temporary;
    • Constant.

    The building has a number of positive properties:

    • The bird gets freedom, space, and in outdoor enclosures. also sunlight, fresh air, which naturally affects its condition, molting.
    • The aviary is also convenient for the owner: after all, it is easier to remove one cage, which, by the way, you can enter, than several small ones.
    • In a spacious dwelling, all the birds are visible, you can immediately notice deviations in the behavior of someone from the flock.
    • It is convenient to carry out preventive vitamin courses, feed the birds.
    • An open-air cage for large parrots is simply necessary: ​​in a small cage, it is virtually impossible to monitor a pet without psychological damage.

    You should also remember about some of the disadvantages of closed enclosures:

    • For a large cell, it is necessary to allocate a significant area on the site or in the room.
    • In the event of a disease, all birds are at risk, therefore, preventive treatment for the flock will have to be carried out.
    • It is difficult to trace the diet of an individual parrot.
    • It’s hard to tame pets in an aviary.
    • If the owner dreams of an increase in the number of birds, he will have to build separate cages so that the nesting pair calmly hatch the chicks.

    The question of building an aviary

    Having raised the question of how to make an aviary, it is a good idea to read the advice of experts:

    • The aviary should be spacious so that the birds can fly there freely, but small budgies in a large space feel uncomfortable and take a long time to get used to a new place. If the fence turns out to be tight, the bird will touch its wings against the net. The best option for two pets is as follows. the height of the structure is about a meter, the length is more, by thirty to fifty centimeters, and the width is about fifty centimeters.
    • There are a lot of materials for making a cage: plywood, boards, mesh. A fine mesh of any alloy is suitable for the frame. Environmentally friendly is galvanized or stainless steel, with medium-sized cells and rods up to three millimeters thick. You can purchase a special cage net. You will also need fasteners, metal corners and ties.
    • It is better to place the structure in a bright corner of the room, otherwise you will have to arrange additional lighting.
    • The parrot is a shy bird, it feels protected if the two walls of the enclosure are solid.
    • You can place the parrot house on the wall, but such a structure is difficult to fix.
    • Using the frame schemes found in the special literature, having studied all the dimensions, you can start marking the blanks. Further, from the bars of the required length, a frame is made, the corners of which are fixed with furniture corners.
    • Mesh plates are being prepared. To prevent the workpieces from curling, they must lie under oppression for some time. Then the mesh is fixed on the base. It is necessary to look through all the sharp rods of the net and grind them so that the bird cannot get hurt. It is not recommended to open the mesh with varnish. The metal is treated with a disinfectant or vinegar solution.
    • An obligatory element of the aviary are doors for birds and a gate through which a person can enter to carry out periodic cleaning.

    The last stage in the construction of a do-it-yourself parrot enclosure is his equipment, namely:

    • Attach several bird perches, about half a meter from the floor, and always wooden ones, because in nature parrots spend the night on tree branches, clasping them with their paws in a ring. In captivity, these conditions must be preserved.
    • Parrots love to entertain themselves by swinging on rings or swings.
    • Inside the aviary, it is nice to place a spreading branch of some tree, you can place plants (edible for birds) in flowerpots.
    • The bottom of the structure can be covered with thick cardboard, or even better with linoleum, which will greatly facilitate cleaning. Not a bad option: force the bottom with plastic or wood containers.
    • It is better to feed the bird in feeders, automatic drinkers are easily attached to the walls from the twigs.

    A self-made and equipped aviary will look no worse than a purchased one.

    The principle of building an outdoor enclosure is the same, only you need to approach its construction more seriously:

    • To prevent mice from entering the enclosure, a foundation and a low brick base are needed, in which metal supports are installed at regular intervals during laying. A metal frame is then welded to them. Subsequently, the frame is covered in two rows with a metal mesh with cells of different diameters. This is done in order to protect pets from the encroachments of other birds.
    • If you plan to keep birds in an outdoor aviary constantly, then you need a capital insulated room with lighting and a heating system.
    • A street fence can be pulled around the tree to bring conditions closer to natural.
    • When considering how to arrange an outdoor enclosure, the owner must remember that budgerigars love to meet the dawn, so the front of the structure should look at the sunny side.
    • Garden enclosures should have a vestibule to stop a bird flying out of the enclosure. In such a room, you can also store all kinds of inventory.
    • It is good to make the northern side of the aviary from organic glass: birds will be protected from cold winds.
    • And one more small nuance: the garden aviary should be locked, because the parrot is a very smart and observant bird: he will definitely try to open the latch on the doors.

    DIY aviary. how to build correctly? 88 photos of ideas from masters

    Most dog breeders need specialized enclosures for large dogs.

    Many owners prefer to independently produce a structure for their animal.

    How to make an aviary with your own hands? You will find the answer to this question in our material. Here are step-by-step instructions for correct assembly.

    Aviary construction principle

    Before proceeding with the independent construction of a building, it is recommended that you first familiarize yourself with the general principles that provide for every detail of the structure.

    The main requirement of the aviary is the safety and comfort of the animal. The height and width of the building should be several times the size of the dog.

    Experienced professionals recommend making the ceiling height slightly higher than the height of the animal.

    The minimum area of ​​an average dog enclosure is about 7 m2. This area is enough for the dog to freely move around the territory of his possession.

    The drawing of the aviary helps to get acquainted with the project of the future building. All wall and ceiling parameters are displayed here. If desired, additional sections and doors can be added for unhindered access to the animal. The size of the enclosure is selected based on the size of an adult dog.