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Fish do not eat food what to do

What artificial fish food can be:

You can approach the solution of the feeding problem from a different angle. feed the fish with artificial dry combined feed, finely chopped beef heart, squid fillet, omelet, special cakes cooked in the microwave, homemade cottage cheese or yogurt, and even canned green peas and semolina porridge. And yet. buckwheat!

First, let’s say a few words about commercially available dry combination feed. Even today, some novice aquarists believe that dry food is nothing more than dry daphnia or gammarus, which were used to feed aquarium fish back in the century before last. However, this is not the case. Modern dry food is a complex mixture of many dozen components. They are made using special, almost secret technologies. Compared to them, the bags with the aforementioned dried crustaceans look like a useless anachronism.

Dried gammarus itself is not a good food, but as a chitin-containing additive in homemade food for aquarium fish, it is very good. But he causes allergies too often.

Of the imported dry feeds, the most available feeds are from Tetra, Dajana, Sera, JBL, AZOO. Their assortment is wide enough so that you can always find something suitable for your pets. There are, for example, food for discus, catfish, goldfish, as well as food of a universal composition. All of them contain biologically active substances and vitamins necessary for fish, are balanced in the content of proteins, fats and carbohydrates. The feed recipe is designed taking into account the characteristics of digestion and the specific needs of certain groups of fish. Nevertheless, universal foods that can be used to feed all fish in the aquarium at once give very good results.
Food for aquarium fish can be flaked, granular, and can combine the properties of both flakes and granules. the so-called creeps. In my opinion, it is most correct to use granules of a suitable caliber, in this case the contamination of the aquarium water by uneaten food debris and organic matter extracted from the feed particles into the water is the least. In addition to imported fish feed, there are also much cheaper, but good quality domestic ones on sale. For example, a whole series of food for aquarium fish, fry and juveniles “Aqua-Menu”. All of them ensure the full existence and growth of aquarium fish.
When using dry combo feeds, do not forget that they cannot be stored forever, so the first thing to do when buying them. check the expiration date. At home, after opening the package, the shelf life of such food is limited to at most 4 months, while the food should not be allowed to become damp or heated (for example, if the jar is placed on a warm aquarium lid). Store food in a tightly closed container. And when buying, do not strive to buy a larger jar. It is better to take the minimum package, the contents of which will dry out in a month or two. In this case, the loss of nutritional value of the feed, which is inevitable during storage, will be the smallest.
If dry food is so good, why bother with anything else? They are good, but not perfect. Simply opening the jar and pouring food into the fish is easy and simple, with a minimum of hassle. But, as a rule, in the life of every aquarist there comes a period when he switches to more complex feeding patterns. Firstly, you want to achieve perfect results, and secondly, everyone always wants variety, at least in food. Hence and

How and how much to feed aquarium fish.

It is pleasant and interesting to feed the fish or just three rules of the wizard.

fish, food

FIRST RULE OF FEEDING AQUARIUM FISH: A varied diet is undoubtedly good for both you and your fish!

Beef heart, grated with fine shavings (for this you need to freeze it a little), is loved by many fish. Even small neons will not refuse to taste it (naturally, with the appropriate shavings caliber). In terms of the content of easily digestible protein, this is the champion among feeds. Its use can significantly reduce the cost of such gluttons as, for example, discus and astronotus. over, perhaps only with his help, they can be really well fed. But it should be borne in mind that the leftovers from this food are extremely good for the development of planarian worms, which are always found in any aquarium. Normally, they are not harmful, they are nocturnal and therefore practically invisible. But with excessive feeding of fish with the heart, that is, when its remains are not eaten at the bottom of the aquarium, the number of these worms rapidly increases to incredible numbers. Their hordes begin to crawl along the walls of the aquarium even during the day and glide in the water column. Of course, this does not paint the aquarium, in addition, planaria can attack fish. Hence and

Read immediately about how and how much to feed aquarium fish

If you have a beautiful aquarium shining with crystal water, and the fish in it are plump and cheerful. then you are the owner of a miracle and you no longer need to read this text. But miracles, as you know, rarely happen, including truly live aquariums. Why? Because feeding the fish is pleasant and interesting, healthy fish are insatiable, recklessly chasing every crumb, and you always want to give them something else and more. This is usually done, and very soon the water in the aquarium becomes cloudy. and the fish start to feel sad and die a little. The biological balance in the aquarium with uncontrolled feeding of fish quickly becomes hopelessly disturbed.

THE SECOND RULE OF FEEDING AQUARIUM FISH: within 5-10 minutes after adding food to the aquarium, everything should be eaten!

In fact, feeding the fish is not difficult, you just need to know how to do it and how much to feed.

There are simple feeding rules that you need to follow and get your hands on a little. because understanding comes with experience. But first, a few words about what to feed.
Live natural food, such as bloodworms, tubifex, cortetra, daphnia, cyclops, are very fond of fish. They are easy to digest and rich in vitamins. Fish, feeding on them, grow rapidly, and from Daphnia and Cyclops they also brightly colored. But the trouble is, this prosperity may not last long. Along with live food, pathogens of fish diseases will sooner or later enter the aquarium. After all, these feeds are caught in natural reservoirs, most of which have their own fish population, and in nature, rare fish are free from parasites.
In an aquarium, fish are usually very sick and, as a rule, die without qualified treatment. Therefore, unless you are good at treating fish ailments, refrain from using live food from nature. It is safe to feed fish only with brine shrimp nauplii and grown brine shrimp, microworm (vinegar eels), grindal, aulophorus. These are live food, but they are not from nature, but they must be bred at home. Not all aquarists can cope with this task.
The risk of contamination of fish from natural live food will be greatly reduced if the acquired live food is immediately frozen. Freezing for several days at temperatures below 18 ° C will kill fish ectoparasites. You will not be insured against bacterial infections in this way, but they rarely occur in dysfunctional aquariums.

Quickly frozen bloodworms, if stored at a temperature of 12 ° C and below, retains color, shape and, judging by the enthusiasm with which fish eat it, taste. Many aquarists, including members of our forum, freeze bloodworms on their own.

Rules for feeding aquarium fish: how and how much to feed, but not only.

THIRD RULE OF FEEDING AQUARIUM FISH: The given food must be distributed in the aquarium in such a way that everyone gets it. both the strong and the weak, and also those who always keep at the bottom.

About what tricks you sometimes have to resort to in order to fulfill this rule is described here. But first, let’s look at the movie clips, they will allow you to better understand how and how much to feed the fish.

The aquarium shown in these videos is inhabited by a motley company of various small fish. They differ greatly from each other in terms of the horizons occupied in the aquarium, mobility, temperament. In order for everyone to eat, you have to set a relatively large amount of food. And then you need to choose the right food wisely. It must have at least three important properties:

  • granules should not be tough;
  • granules should sink at different speeds: some quickly, others slowly, and some of them swim for a while;
  • the composition of the feed should not contain too much protein, since it is not a little consumed and the nitrogen load on the aquarium in the case of a high-protein feed would be excessive.

One such feed is JBL NovoGranoVert mini, which can be used without pre-soaking. Another important property of this food is that it is tasty (according to the vast majority of aquarium fish), so there will always be people in the aquarium who want to find every last crumb in dense thickets.

The text of this article was first published in 2002.
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GloFish appearance description

Danio Glofish has a variety of blue-violet, red and green color options, reaching a size of 4-5 cm.The body is long, flattened from the sides, contains longitudinal thin silvery stripes and shiny scales on the back. Fish have one upper and four lower transparent fins, which may contain thin longitudinal stripes. In young individuals, the fins are short; as they grow, they grow back and form a veil. The edges of the fins may have a yellow edging. At the corners of the mouth there are 2 pairs of mustaches. Puberty occurs at 5-6 months of life.

Diseases

Danio Glofish are resistant to most pathogens, but with violations of care they can get sick with velvet disease, mycobacteriosis and intestinal capillariasis.

Symptoms:

  • Loss of bright color, fading of scales;
  • Blurred eyes, external defects in the fins and tail;
  • The appearance of spots or plaque;
  • Loss of balance
  • Ophthalmic eyes.

At the first signs of the disease, drugs and antiseptics are used (methylene blue, erythromycin, trichopolum, table salt), sick fish are transferred to another aquarium during treatment.

Feeding

Glofish is fed with flakes for tropical fish, to which thawed brine shrimp or moina, seeds of plants, dry worms, bloodworms, daphnia, larvae and crustaceans are added. Fresh food is added to dry food in a ratio of 1 to 5. Tetramine is the most suitable for ready-made food. Fish do not eat food from the bottom of the aquarium (only from the surface and middle part of the water).

  • Balanced dry food “Tetramine” 500 ml (600 rubles);
  • Liquid feed with brine shrimp (for fry) “Nobile Fluid Artemia” 50 ml (500 r);
  • Dry food with carotenoids “Tetra Pro Color” 100 ml (about 200 rub).
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Care and

Danio Glofish are the same unpretentious inhabitants of the aquarium, like Danio Rerio, and do not differ from them in the pace of physical development, maintenance and breeding. Glofish have a gregarious lifestyle, move quickly and tend to abruptly change direction. For good health, at least 5-6 individuals should be purchased in the aquarium. Most of the time, the fish are calm and peaceful, but conflicts with gnawing fins and pursuit are possible between the growing individuals.

    Arrangement of the aquarium. The bottom should not contain large stones or sharp corners. The soil is chosen dark, homogeneous (for example, gravel, coarse sand, small pebbles). You can cover the bottom with moss or elodea.

Lighting. blue fluorescent lamps at the front wall of the aquarium, as well as natural daylight for at least 2-3 hours a day. The center of the aquarium should be free, around the edges of it should be densely planted with myriophyllum, vallisneria, kabomba and other small-leaved plants. Growing Glofish is preferable in aquariums with a closed lid, as fish can fall out during the jump.

  • Optimal water chemistry. The water should be fresh, with the optimal amount of trace elements: potassium. 30 mg, sodium. 10-20 mg, phosphorus. 1 mg per liter. The medium is neutral or alkaline (pH 6.5-8). Hardness. reduced or medium (from 50 to 190 units of German hardness).
  • Water temperature. Maintain temperature conditions from 20 to 28 degrees (closer to the upper limit).
  • The volume of the aquarium. The aquarium should be at least 50 liters (at the rate of 4 liters per individual), the container should be long, rectangular. For a flock of more than 20-30 individuals, an aquarium of 100 liters or more is needed, in which it is easier to maintain constant water parameters.
  • Filtration, aeration. Aeration should be constant, especially at temperatures of 27-28 degrees. Abundant air saturation is due to the mobility and jumping ability of the flock. For water filtration, powerful internal filters are used, which additionally form weak water flows. It is recommended to change a third of the volume of the aquarium once a week.
  • History and origins

    In nature, the genus Danio Rerio, from which Glofish was grown, lives in the rivers of India and Bangladesh. These are tropical fish that have not been bred in the United States. At the end of the 20th century (1999), scientists from China isolated a fluorescence gene from a jellyfish, which was introduced into Danio Rerio’s embryos.

    A genetic mutation contributed to the appearance of the first green glowing fish. At scientific conferences, the fish were noticed by scientists from the United States, who were engaged in breeding individuals that change color in the presence of toxic substances.

    To this end, Danio fish underwent other genetic mutations, which caused the appearance of red and yellow color variants. Glofish blue and purple colors were obtained after 2010, when genes of various corals were introduced into them, why the fish began to spread outside their natural range.

    Purchase

    Life span

    The average lifespan of Glofish is 3-3.5 years. The life expectancy is influenced by the neighbors in the aquarium, the nature of the diet, the presence of a filter, and water parameters. Good keeping conditions (correct water change, constant aeration and filtration, regular feeding in the correct dosages, compliance with lighting standards) allow the fish to live up to 4.5-5 years.

    The next photo shows zebrafish glo fish:

    Why aquarium fish don’t eat food

    Taking care of the well-being of the aquarium, you install high-quality equipment for aeration and filtration into it, purchase various medicines for fish. However, some aquarists forget about the rules for feeding ornamental fish, which is why they often have the problem of lack of appetite. Most of the cases associated with a lack of appetite in fish are caused by completely natural processes, but in some situations this can be a symptom of severe whitening.

    Reasons for lack of appetite in fish

    The appetite of a fish is one of the main indicators of its health. However, one should not think that “great health is a great appetite.” Each fish should eat in moderation, but some species of fish, such as young scalars, do not have a feeling of satiety, so you set and control this “measure of satiety” yourself.

    If your fish suddenly stops eating food, do not immediately sound the alarm and at the same time feed it or immediately pour fish medications into the aquarium. To begin with, you should carefully examine it for the presence of external injuries or other changes (adhesion of fins, pallor of color, and more). It should be understood that there are several main reasons why fish may lose their appetite:

    • new, unfamiliar fish food;
    • the presence of diseases in fish;
    • the type of food is not suitable for this type of fish: you should pay attention to the structure of the mouth of your fish and its natural diet (predator or carnivore) and, according to this, select the appropriate type of food for it;
    • some types of fish hatch eggs in their mouths, so for a given period of time they may refuse to eat;
    • stress in recently launched fish in a common aquarium: as a rule, this is due to habituation and development of a new space, usually this process lasts about 2 days;
    • poor water quality or incorrect temperature in the aquarium;
    • a tumor or a foreign body in her throat, while the fish swallows food, and then spits it out. in such cases, you should contact specialized veterinary clinics;
    • a fish’s lack of appetite and excrement may mean that it is constipated; usually constipation in fish goes away within 2 days;
    • the fish was recently overfed;
    • the fish recently went into a fight, and noticeable injuries remained on its body. the lack of appetite in this case is due to the presence of post-traumatic syndrome in the individual and the unwillingness to enter into conflict again;
    • poor feed quality.

    Basic principles of proper fish feeding

    When choosing food for aquarium fish, it should be understood that along with it, she receives all the vitamins and minerals she needs, and their lack can adversely affect her general condition and immunity in general. Therefore, when choosing food for fish, you should pay attention to their following parameters:

    • manufacturer and quality;
    • specific purpose;
    • composition of trace elements and vitamins;
    • type of feed (bottom or floating).

    You should also know that an open can of food can be stored for no more than 6 months, then the food begins to deteriorate, and the fish may stop eating it.

    There are basic rules for proper feeding of aquarium fish:

    • “A hungry fish is a healthy fish“, that is, the fish does not need to be overfed;
    • fish do not know the feeling of satiety, so you need to calculate the daily allowance yourself;
    • it is better to feed the fish two small portions, morning and evening, than one large portion at a time;
    • nutrition should be varied, for example, alternating dry and live food;
    • it is not necessary to feed the fish immediately after a full or partial water change, as it may be stressed and will not be up to it.

    As a result, we can say that a fish’s appetite is one of the indicators of its health, as well as the quality of its environment. If you notice an unhealthy individual in your room, it must be urgently deposited in a separate aquarium and not fed for 1-2 days. If symptoms of the disease appear on it, then it is urgent to start treating it with the help of all kinds of medicines or folk methods.

    Hypothermia, low water temperature

    The impact of low temperatures has a depressing effect on the activity of living things, and the aquarium fish cockerel is no exception. A drop in water temperature below 24 ° C is dangerous for its prosperous existence. This is due to the fact that in its natural environment, this creature lives in hot equatorial waters, with a fairly high and stable temperature throughout the year.

    A decrease in water temperature to 20 ° C and below signals the fish’s body about the onset of an unfavorable period, as a result of which the processes of inhibition of metabolism are triggered, and with this the activity of organs and systems. In this way, the body tries to switch to an autonomous mode with a low intake of nutrients, the so-called suspended animation, which helps it survive an unfavorable period. As a result, the mobility of the cock is reduced, and there is also a complete or partial refusal of food. But most often, a decrease in temperature causes a cold in a fish, accompanied by a sharp suppression of immunity. As a result, fasting becomes one of the symptoms of a cold, which, if not treated promptly, can have a detrimental effect on the health of the cockerel.

    Diseases

    One of the most common reasons for refusing to feed fish can be called all kinds of ailments, to which their delicate organism is especially susceptible. In this case, starvation is only an accompanying problem that develops against the background of external signs of damage to the body, general weakness and apathy. Most often, bettas suffer from two common infections. ichthyophthyriosis (“semolina”) and fin rot. Fin rot is a collective name for a variety of rotten lesions in the body of ornamental fish that cause fin rot. Various strains of microorganisms from the genera Aeromonas, Pseudomonas or Vibrio cause the pathological process. Infection leads to decay and destruction of the fin, and in advanced cases, it can be fatal.

    The main symptoms of fin rot are:

    • discoloration of the fin, characteristic turbidity or browning;
    • blurred eyes;
    • the appearance of small ulcers on the body;
    • apathy and general weakness, the fish can be in a sedentary state for a long time;
    • almost complete rejection of feed.

    Defeating fin rot is not easy, but possible. In modern veterinary practice, powerful antibiotics with antifungal and antibacterial effects are used for these purposes. The most popular among them are:

    • Sera Baktopur. use a preparation for water treatment at the rate of 22 drops (1 ml) / l of water per day. Apply the drug twice, with a break of 48 hours. After drug therapy, the water in the container is renewed;
    • Antibacterial-250. the drug is diluted in a separate container at the rate of 1 tablet / 10 l of water, the resulting solution is used once for therapeutic baths. Affected fish in a medicinal solution is kept daily, but not more than 4 hours a day, the duration of therapy is 6 days. The drug can also be used to treat an aquarium, for this, 1 tablet is diluted in 200 liters of water. The duration of the procedure is 6 days, after which it is necessary to renew the water in the container;
    • Tetracycline hydrochloride. add the agent to the aquarium water at the rate of 4–6 mg / l. Fish processing is carried out twice, every 48 hours, but if necessary, the therapy is extended. Before each next cycle of drug administration, 25% of the water in the aquarium is changed to fresh.
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    Ichthyophthiriosis or, as it is popularly called, “semolina” is an invasive lesion of freshwater fish by unicellular protozoa Ichthyophthirius multifiliis from the ciliates group. The disease is quite dangerous, since a parasitic protozoan in just a few days can cause the death of the entire fauna of the aquarium, this is especially pronounced if the body of the fish is weakened by the primary disease.

    The disease is diagnosed quickly enough, the main reason for its development is often non-observance of the general rules of hygiene when keeping ornamental fish. The main symptoms of ichthyophthyriosis:

    • small white nodules on the body, first they affect the head, and then the body and tail;
    • apathy;
    • decreased movement activity;
    • the fish sinks to the bottom, jerks, often jerks;
    • refusal to eat or regurgitation of food after eating.

    They fight this disease with the following veterinary drugs:

    • Sera Costapur. the drug is added directly to the aquarium water at the rate of 22 drops (1 ml) / 40 l of water per day. The drug is used twice with a break of 48 hours, but if necessary, the number of procedures is increased to 4. After drug therapy, the water in the container is changed to a new one;
    • Malachite green. used to disinfect water at the rate of 0.09 mg / l of water per day. Before each injection, 25% of the water in the aquarium is renewed. The duration of therapy depends on the complexity of the infection, therefore, the drug is used until the symptoms of ichthyophthyriosis completely disappear;
    • Ciprofloxacin. add the agent to the aquarium water at the rate of 500 mg / 80 l of water per day. Before each injection of the drug in the aquarium, be sure to update the water. The duration of therapy depends on the complexity of the infection, so the drug is used until the signs of the disease disappear completely.

    Additionally, drug therapy should be accompanied by warming up the fish; for this, the water in the aquarium is heated to the maximum permissible temperature, which is within 29.30 ° C. This will help speed up the body’s recovery processes and its susceptibility to drugs.

    However, ichthyophthyroidism or fin rot can come back again, therefore, in order to prevent their appearance in the future, in the aquarium it is necessary not only to change the water, but also to thoroughly clean its walls, as well as interior items from dirt and plaque.

    Improper care

    Among many inexperienced aquarists, there is an opinion that if under natural conditions the fish lives in muddy, dirty and practically not adapted to the normal existence of water, then even with its cultural breeding, there is no need to worry too much about the state of the aquarium. However, this is not at all the case. Cultural individuals are born in environmental conditions as close as possible to the ideal, therefore they often lose the ability to withstand drastic changes.

    This leads to the emergence of their high susceptibility to the environment, as well as a decrease in the level of immunity. As a result, non-observance of general rules and hygiene of their maintenance leads to a sharply negative reaction of the body, which can often manifest itself as a refusal to feed. In this case, the habitat of the fish should be brought to optimal performance as soon as possible, since improper care in just a few weeks can lead to serious chronic ailments, up to the death of the cockerel. Optimum environmental parameters for aquarium cockerels:

    • the volume of the aquarium. at least 4–5 l / 1 individual;
    • water temperature. 24.28 ° С;
    • water hardness. 4–15 ° dGH;
    • pH of the medium. 6.0–7.5;
    • lighting intensity. 1 W / l;
    • the duration of artificial lighting of the aquarium. 6-8 hours a day;
    • CO2 level. no more than 15 mg / l;
    • ground flooring. river sand or gravel (can be replaced with special painted soil for aquariums);
    • compatibility. best of all, bettas get along with swordtails, platies, brocade and speckled catfish, thorns, rasbora, grumbling gouras, minors, etc.

    Do not forget that the sanitary conditions in the aquarium affect the state of the fish and their behavior, therefore, in order to avoid oppression of the cockerels, it is necessary:

    • regularly clean water from pollutants, at least 1 time per week;
    • change water to clean;
    • be sure to install a water filter in the aquarium;
    • clean the bottom of feed residues immediately after feeding.

    Overfeeding

    Ornamental fish species are practically unable to independently regulate the diet and the amount of food consumed, therefore, many inexperienced aquarists often overfeed their wards. Trying to prevent pets from starving often leads to obesity in the betta. For fish, this pathology is a rather serious damage to the body. In addition to the thickening of the abdomen, excess fat deposits lead to a variety of metabolic disorders, and with this to damage to the kidneys, liver and mesentery. The first symptoms of this problem are not only external signs, but also apathy, as well as voluntary starvation.

    It is quite difficult to overcome obesity in a rooster, therefore, the main recommendation for eliminating pathology is timely prevention:

    • fish are fed no more than 2 times a day, in small portions;
    • at one time, the cockerel should not consume more than 5% of its own weight, therefore, 3-5 minutes after feeding, it is imperative to remove all food residues from the bottom and from the water column.

    Food preferences

    Quite often, large food particles are completely ignored by the fish, regardless of the type and quality, this is especially pronounced when feeding with coarse food, so any food for the cockerel must be prepared in advance.

    Incorrect water change

    Water is the most important factor for the well-being of fish, as clean and fresh air is for humans. Due to the fact that bettas are kept in stagnant aquarium water, it requires constant replacement, since feces, food particles and other contaminants can lead to serious illness in these fish. However, not every aquarist can correctly replace.

    This often leads to quite serious stress, which becomes the main reason for the abrupt refusal of males to eat. The main point of replacing water is to reduce the dangerous concentration of various substances, but this process is carried out smoothly, avoiding sudden changes in the state of the external environment. To do this, you should establish a stable mode with a clearly worked out frequency. Depending on the population of the aquarium, the procedure is carried out 2-3 to 5-6 times a month. At the same time, the amount of new water in the aquarium should not exceed 20-30% of the total volume of the tank, otherwise it can disrupt the ecological balance inside the aquarium, which threatens with serious consequences for the fish organism, up to serious ailments. A complete replacement of water is carried out in exceptional cases when a partial replacement does not bring the expected improvement in its quality. This is often observed:

    • with progressive water bloom caused by microscopic algae;
    • when persistent acidification of the substrate has developed;
    • during the treatment of all kinds of infectious diseases;
    • if persistent, hard-to-wash fungal mucus has accumulated on the walls of the aquarium and decorative elements.

    Adaptation period

    In this case, the body of the fish needs a certain period in order to get used to the new conditions and composition of the water. This is often accompanied by many changes in their behavior, including refusal to eat. In this case, the fasting of the cock is a natural norm that does not require sharp human intervention. This period often lasts for several days, but especially susceptible individuals can starve for a week.

    Bad food

    Various representatives of the aquatic fauna are highly susceptible to all kinds of chemical compounds, toxicants, etc. Even small fractions of substances can have a detrimental effect on their health, therefore, in the course of evolution, the fish have learned to skillfully distinguish them in any food. This is a natural necessity that has helped them successfully survive in nature to this day, so when feeding poor-quality or contaminated food, the cockerel can often quite calmly refuse food until quality food appears in the aquarium.

    Despite the fact that these representatives of the aquatic fauna are considered omnivores, they feed on fresh and clean food, as well as exclusively pre-prepared foods (crushed to the required size). To distinguish between low-quality or harmful food, you need to take a good look at the behavior of the fish at the time of feeding. If the cock has an active interest in feeding, hesitantly tastes food, and then rejects it, you should seriously think about changing the feed or diet, especially if you decide to include something new in the food of the cock.

    Fish and snails: enemies or friends?

    Fish and snails: enemies or friends?

    The relevance of the gastronomic symbiosis of these aquarium inhabitants is not so interesting for experienced aquarists, who will say with full confidence: “Well, what’s not clear here! Fish eat snails, and snails eat dead fish. that’s all. ” However, these processes are incomprehensible to the beginner or young aquarist. And sometimes, when he sees how the ampulla “bites” into the dead fish, he enters into a kind of stupor with a question. what to do with it?

    First, let’s make a reservation that the snail aquarium certainly looks more natural and beautiful. But you can easily do without them. Aquarium snails are aquarium orderlies (they clean walls, decor, plants, etc.), but at the same time they need harder water (which is due to the need to obtain building material for the sink). There are relatively whimsical snails (Ampularia), there are like a multi-Tatar Ygo. tenacious and all-exciting (Coils). In general, there are advantages and there are, I would say, not disadvantages, but nuances.

    Now let’s cover the question: do snails eat fish, can they do it at all?!

    All snails are scavengers, mildly referred to as “aquarium orderlies.” but this does not change the essence. As soon as the aquarium fish has died, and sometimes, even when it flutters, the “crowd” of snails pounces on the lifeless body. Thus, this is a natural process provided by Mother Nature, and you should not be afraid of it. Another question is what to do about it? Dead, and even more so, the fish that died from the disease should be removed from the aquarium without waiting for the end of the snail’s feast. Otherwise, you risk spreading the infection throughout the aquarium.

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    Why Fish not Eating Food? | How to make aquarium fish eat food | Best DIY fish feeding ideas

    Live and healthy aquarium fish, snails will not eat! For this to happen, snails need a couple of jet engines.

    In turn, the fish do not remain in debt! Many aquarium fish are not averse to eating snails, for some it is an exquisite delicacy, for example, gourami, many cichlids, the GOLDEN FISH family and even shrimp are not averse to grated snails.

    photo Snails coil photo Ampularia

    It should be noted that many aquarists, on the contrary, breed snails (Coils) for feeding fish, thereby saving on food, adding variety to the diet and at the same time knowing that live food is not contagious.

    Do you need snails in an aquarium?

    These little dwellers can do both good and damage to your aquarium. Here, as in the case of drugs, it all depends on the dose. Snails are natural orderlies. They eat up all the remains of food and dead plants. In addition, snails are used to clean the aquarium, they scrape off plaque from the walls and absorb the waste products of fish. There are some types of snails that you can safely use as indicators of the water quality in your aquarium. And also small snails in the aquarium often serve as a decorative element.

    But these creatures reproduce very quickly, so over time you will have to artificially regulate their population. If there are too many snails in the aquarium, it will lead to a lack of oxygen. If there is a shortage of food, they will begin to eat plants, and some species will secrete mucus, which will lead to contamination of the aquarium.

    What does an aquarium snail eat :: what snails eat in an aquarium :: Animals :: Other

    Instructions

    Under natural conditions, snails feed mainly on various algae and bacterial growths that form in the water. In an aquarium, these fouling takes the form of various grayish films on glass, leaves and water surface. Ampullaria scrape off algae from the bottom, glass and plants. Sometimes they gnaw at tender young plants, but this only happens if the snails do not have enough food.

    Most aquarium snails prefer to feed on dead or dying plants, which keeps the water quality in the aquarium at all times. Healthy plants can produce cyanides and other harmful substances that are unacceptable to many species of snails.

    Ampullaria eat almost anything they can grind and swallow: cucumbers, spinach, carrots, fish food, dead fish and their eggs. Since they can only eat very soft foods, they should be fed boiled vegetables or canned spinach. Snails do not refuse from scraped meat and scalded salad. They can also be given a soaked white loaf, carefully throwing it in small pieces into the water. Be careful not to spoil the water from leftover food.

    A small funnel is made from the upper half of the snail’s leg and food is drawn into it along with a film floating on the surface of the water. After the funnel is almost full to the brim, the mollusk eats up its contents very quickly. Then he draws up the next portion of feed.

    To control the snail population, uncooked food should be removed from the aquarium after each feed.

    An interesting video about the yellow snail ampullia

    What do snails eat in an aquarium

    Aquarium snails

    What is the role of snails. It is rare to find an aquarium without aquarium snails. Slowly moving gastropods can beautify and benefit an underwater garden. But, under some circumstances, they become a disaster.

    The useful qualities of these creatures include loosening the soil, destroying unwanted algae on the walls of the aquarium and the bacterial film on the surface of the water, as well as eating food that has not been eaten by fish. At the same time, some species of snails can damage aquatic plants and even kill fish.

    If snails suddenly appeared in the aquarium, and it happened “not according to plan”, then, most likely, their eggs were originally brought into the aquarium. She could have gotten with live food or with new plants being transplanted into the aquarium. How long do snails live when they get into an aquarium? Depending on the type and conditions, from 1 to 4 years.

    So are snails needed in an aquarium? Subject to their correct choice and content, this question can be safely answered in the affirmative.

    How do snails breed in an aquarium? Breeding snails in an aquarium is often straightforward.

    Most of them are hermaphrodites, and even a couple of small snails that find themselves in an underwater garden are able to start a population. But there are exceptions. Snails such as ampullia are dioecious, and for their reproduction, the presence of a male and a female is necessary. Ground melanias are completely viviparous and are able, after a single fertilization, to bring offspring several times.

    The breeding process of aquarium snails is unique. toothless. Females literally shoot larvae. glochidia. on the bodies of fish swimming by. This almost always leads to the death of the host fish.

    If you have a desire to contribute to the reproduction of aquarium snails (most often they artificially propagate ampularia), then, having noticed that caviar has appeared in the aquarium (on the walls, stones or cover glass), you should carefully cut it off with a razor and place it in a shallow (up to 10 cm. Depth ) a container filled with warm (26-28 degrees) water. After 15-45 days, juveniles of aquarium snails will appear.

    What do snails eat right after birth? The juveniles of your aquarium slugs should be fed fine fish food with scalded lettuce leaves or cucumber pieces. The hatchery for young snails should be well lit. Light promotes the formation of algae, which must be included in the diet of young individuals.

    What is the use of snails in an aquarium? To answer this question, you first need to answer the question of what snails eat? Firstly, aquarium snails successfully eat food that was not eaten by the fish and ended up on the bottom of the aquarium. Thus, they prevent its decay and the ingress of toxic substances into the aquarium water (aquarium catfish perform similar functions). Secondly, snails cleanse the aquarium of algae. Especially in this work, horny coils and young ampullae are zealous.

    It should be noted that snails eat algae haphazardly. If the aquarium is noticeably overgrown with algae, then the result of the activity of the snails will be the appearance of a kind of “paths” on the walls.

    Melanias lead a secretive lifestyle. They spend the daylight hours digging in the ground and draining it. Thus, melanias improve gas exchange at the bottom of the aquarium. These snails do not damage plant roots, feeding only on organic debris. Melania breathes with gills. If the aquarium begins to lack oxygen, then first of all it is felt in the soil. In such a case, melania begins to creep out onto the walls of the aquarium during the day. This behavior serves as a signal for the aquarist to increase aeration and filtration of the aquarium water, to clean the bottom.

    By the way, snails are a good indicator of the state of the aquarium. If you notice that your aquarium slugs are increasingly out of water on the walls or coverslip of the aquarium, then you should think about why they are crawling out of the aquarium. There may be several reasons for this behavior of aquarium snails. Perhaps your pets are starving, and you need to decide what to feed the snails in the aquarium. It may also indicate excessive contamination of the water. And for individuals with pulmonary respiration, this behavior is absolutely normal, they crawl out to ventilate the lungs.

    If a massive death of snails has begun in your aquarium, then it is imperative to understand why snails are dying. The most common reason for this is nitrate contamination of the aquarium or excessive accumulation of CO gas in the water (it destroys the shell). It happens that the death of snails occurs due to the fact that the distance between the surface of the water and the cover slip is too small. At the same time, many snails are not able to breathe normally and reproduce.

    Snails such as pearl barley can also be helpful. In fact, they are living filters for aquariums. Pearl barley, along with ampullia and tiger snails, also have aesthetic value.

    fish, food

    How do aquarium snails threaten the underwater garden? As we have already indicated, the reproduction of pearl barley can cause the death of fish. Species such as pond snails, pearl barley and fiza damage aquarium plants and are not suitable for keeping in a green aquarium.

    Why aren’t my fish eating?

    In addition, under favorable conditions, the population can exceed reasonable limits. If there are a lot of snails in the aquarium, then even coils, ampullia and melania can also start to harm the plants. In this case, it is necessary to decide the question of how to remove the snails from the aquarium or control their numbers.

    In the least severe cases, this can be done mechanically. Melania will be very convenient to remove at night. It is at this time that these snails crawl out onto the walls of the aquarium.

    Many species of catfish help to curb the growth of snails. Eating fouling, they destroy snail eggs. The same eggs that were laid in places inaccessible to catfish allow maintaining the population.

    If you are faced with the question of how to get the snails out of the aquarium completely, then you should resort to the help of macropods. A pair of macropods will successfully cope with this task in 2-3 weeks, having saved a 200-300 liter aquarium from snails. Snails are their favorite food. But the complete removal of snails should be carried out only when gastropods have multiplied in the aquarium, harming other inhabitants of the underwater garden. Remember what makes the biological balance in the aquarium more sustainable and contributes to the harmonious development of your aquarium.

    Photo review of beautiful photos with a yellow ampullary snail

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