Only a trough-feeder is made of this material, which is very convenient for both bulk feed and root crops. It does not require any drawings or precise calculations. The basic rule is to measure the desired length.
It is necessary to take a profile of the required width, cut off a piece of the required size and install the plugs on the sides. The optimal profile width is 150 mm. Legs or hooks can be attached to the structure for hanging on the cage.
You can make your own trough feeders without much effort and knowledge. To make a gutter, you need to prepare 6 boards, 2 of which will be used for making the bottom, 2 for long sides, and 2 more for short sides. Usually such containers for food are made in the form of a cone.
The boards that are used for the boards are cut at an angle and secured with screws. Because of the narrow bottom, rabbits can easily reach their own food. In addition, several individuals can feed from the trough at once.
The work on creating such a feeder begins with comparing the size of the cage and the future product.
The work on creating such a feeder begins with comparing the size of the cage and the future product. But if you are not sure that it will turn out to be made professionally, then you can opt for something simpler.
The easiest way to make a trough is from a can of 3 liters or more:
- Count 3 cm from the bottom of the can, draw a horizontal line at this height.
- Cut the can in half of this line.
- Drill at least 15 holes along the bottom of the can, as many as possible.
- Press the lower part of the cut strip so that a large hole forms on top of the can, where food will be poured, and a small gap from below, where food will pour out.
- Screw the container to the cage door. Feed silo ready.
If you still want to make a more professional version, then you need to draw a galvanized sheet of metal according to the drawing, bend and connect all the parts.
Features of the manufacture, acquisition and maintenance of feeders
If the trough is small, the rabbits may be malnourished, or the breeder will occasionally fill it, which will distract him from other activities. If the material from which the feeders are constructed is of poor quality, the animal may suffer, because rabbits can even gnaw poisonous plastic objects.
Tip: You need to ensure that there is constant cleanliness around the feeders and in them, otherwise particles of animal excrement can enter the food and cause infection. Infection with pathogens can be carried on sawdust or straw.
Normally, the container holds the daily feed rate for rabbits. The technical side of the issue is equally important. The feeder should be made so that it can be easily and quickly filled, as well as easy to open and close, remove from the cage for washing or replacement, and quickly put in place.
The feeder and drinker are usually placed inside the cage. Hay and grass are placed in outdoor nurseries. Nursery cages resemble blocks.
Rabbit cuisine should be geared towards the needs of the animals. A do-it-yourself rabbit feeder is built in a certain size, which I calculate based on the number of animals in the cage. One individual needs 50 per 100 mm. Spaces. It is better to make a drinker 1.5 liters, and one hare needs to put a bowl so that it is about 30 or 40 millimeters long.
The main types of rabbit feeders
Rabbit feeders are selected depending on the type of cage and the number of animals. We will tell you more about the main types of feeders.
Check out the home breeds of rabbits: Californian, White Giant, Gray Giant, Risen, Sheep, Butterfly, Black Brown, Belgian Giant, Angora.
Drawings and dimensions
Before you start making the feeder, you need to decide on its size and draw up a drawing. If you don’t want to mess with it, you can take any scheme on the Internet, the main thing is that it fits in size. A schematic drawing of the future feeder will save you from basic mistakes in manufacturing and will help you build what you need the first time
It is very important to make accurate measurements so that the finished product fits in the feeder and is convenient for animals.
The most popular drawing for a hopper type feeder is this one:
Bunker models are considered very comfortable, modern. Farmers prefer them. They provide maximum comfort when feeding with grain, pellets. Feed is distributed in containers in portions, which is carried out due to their design. At the same time, simple constant access to power is guaranteed.
Feed mixtures are poured directly into the hopper. For distribution of feed, there is a narrow enough opening that extends along the entire length of the container. It is especially convenient for animals and the farmer that each new portion will be fed automatically.
Popular models. hoppers
You can quickly make a functional structure from a canister, wooden planks or plywood. The most optimal, practical option is to use sheet metal, for example, a profiled sheet. A tin container is easier to clean, making it much easier to maintain hygiene in the cage. In addition, rabbits will not be able to chew sheets of tin.
Fastening the hopper feeder
The fastening of bunker-type containers is carried out in different ways. Someone mounts several pieces, while others prefer to use one roomy feeder. The number of animals in the cage also plays a role.
Ceramic bowls or bowl feeders
They look aesthetically pleasing. Used for feeding rabbits with granulated feed, grain and root crops. Also suitable as a drinker. There are even more expensive ones. But the point is, the rabbit doesn‘t care about beauty. The main thing for him is that there is a lot of food and tasty for him. And he can easily turn over such a bowl, stomping food with his paws. And then there is not much sense in feeding. You can fix the feeder, but then it will be inconvenient to add food to it. And its capacity is very small. it fits no more than the daily norm. So you buy this bowl to please yourself, not the rabbit.
Feeder drawing design
In order to design a drawing of a bunker nursery, it is necessary to determine its dimensions, taking into account not only the width and height, but also the size of the side parts. You can design the drawing yourself or find it on the Internet and adjust the dimensions to your cage.
Important! Make the feeder in such a shape that it is convenient for you to clean it, because if you do not periodically clean the food from the container, it will rot and can harm your pets.
The picture below shows an example of a drawing of a wooden manger with medium dimensions (in mm), which can be used to make such a container at home.
If you want to build a metal nursery that will last longer than wooden ones, the drawing may look like this:
DIY bunker feeder for rabbits
Hello subscribers and guests of my blog. Today, as promised, I want to show you how I make bunker feeders for rabbits.
It contains his rabbits in cages, a pit, an aviary, no matter where such a feeder is suitable for any way of keeping rabbits, we will return this feeder to the rabbit from which I took it from that cage, since it is easy for us to install a female here, the gerda who came from us stupid, and the sailor on May 15, I will cover her, too, males.
Brought from the marik, look, I use the same feeders in the street cages of the cage walls, this hole is cut out.
The feeder is inserted there, here it is pressed against the wall; with such a fastener with a spring, so that the rabbit cannot push it out of the cage, into the cage itself, takes up quite a bit of space; this is how the rabbit feeds, you can hang it, of course, it was from the inside, but I do it in order to have more space in the cage, this is how the feeder itself is on the street, and the compartment from which the rabbit feeds is inside until the boxer; this is our German motley giant 1 pure black tonic and so we start making the feeder, and until I forget, who has not yet seen how I made this one here: the tier structure for rabbits will have a link in the description of how I make it, and, how it works, let’s continue to make.
Canister rabbit bunker feeder
We measure out 10 centimeters and one more line is the same that you are here 10, and here. 10 then we do this kind of markup: we will cut it out here so that the roots of our dust can wake up, down through the feeder, so it means, these are, here are the total dimensions 10 from the edge to 1 strip, this two and a half centimeters go further segments of two centimeters 3, A segment of two centimeters and the last segment of one and a half centimeters, the width here is about the same as I’m looking at now, 6 half centimeters is the length of this kind of strips and on the back side the same is only already two and a half centimeters to it was here, now two and a half centimeters in that part begins on this side, here in 2 and a half further there are 3 segments of two centimeters and the last segment and a half centimeters is roughly obtained so that the same distance between opposite lines is like this further: here here are the corners outlining them we have to saw from here here, just a little, so further here will be you line.
Cutting line there will be a cutting line, and this side, where we had it, where we folded it. Unbending there will also be a line, a cut along the line where the side was dispersed, and here it will also be cut off, that is, it will be cut off, this piece on the wrong side is the same, and this is how it will be cut off here we will have lines.
Here we cut off the fold according to the markings that we made all our segments here cut off here these parts were cut here here the strips were cut with a grinder from the inside first we cut them completely then we turn them over and we also clean all the burrs that stuck out here after we cut these here we clean everything up on a spoon, we got such slots, let them spill out, fine dust fodder, like every little thing, we carefully clean all the cutting lines where we cut off so that there are no burrs, then we bend these parts back according to the position as they were, and here we bend these parts inward by 90 90 degrees: this is how it turns out: these parts and back to the inside.
We bent the front and let the two parts be bent 90 degrees inward, so now we fold this part of the remaining one through this resulting wall inward and first we fold it here and what remains we fold inward.
Feeding troughs here we are, which are 8 centimeters bent, and now we bend it, through these parts inside all this we help a little here.
We bend here we knock, so that the material lays down more or less evenly, and now just with our hands it bends easily with our hands and also with a hammer, we also knock, so we bent.
That’s how it turns out, they bent you with a hammer, knocked on, until we bent you together at the cat.
A fold of such a workpiece is still necessary, it is necessary to make hooks in advance at the fasteners, for which our feeder will be suspended, this is the lower part to from the upper part.
We measure now, I will turn it over from the top. We measure out the feeders 10 centimeters; we carry out the floors; we measure out one and a half centimeters; one more strip further, from the top we measure out a strip of one and a half centimeters: another centimeter; I am making these fasteners for such a grid, and whose length is 5 centimeters, I am, so such dimensions are, here are 10, one and a half and 30, one and a half, just suitable for attaching this feeder, we now reflect everything, here these strips with a grinder of approximately a centimeter two by three, well, how can a crooks, cut through large ones, no need, we need a distance such that the strip is hooked; entered, it will be an approximate centimeter, something like this, we made cuts from the inside.
We first cleaned everything with a grinder, and now we carefully bend the screwdriver quite a bit, so that we can insert the plates here, we have prepared plates in advance with such a width of about one and a half centimeters, so we insert everything, now these plates are like this from below here we are bent one centimeter this is a bend One centimeter, it remains below, so we insert it, these plates are centered from the center and now we bend this part, we tap it all with a hammer and then we bend the upper part by 90 degrees, so we bent the lower part, which knocked it all, everything that was bent here, perished, destroyed it, all It knocked.
With a hammer, they put a block from below, knocked with a hammer, everything was leveled evenly and the upper part was pressed well and either the plates were bent 90 degrees like this did the same with the upper part further.
We measure the lower part of this plate in the lower part, which is measured 4 centimeters on the upper plate, measure three centimeters and saw off, that is, the lower plate will then be one centimeter larger in order to make it more convenient to attach the feeder.
First. The lower plate is inserted into the cell, when you hook into the cell, the upper one already fits there.
The plate also hits the cell and the fruit is sawn off and so cut off 3 centimeters left it four now that’s how you can even neatly bent down to the end with your fingers it is not necessary tightly so that all the fasteners are ready to get hooks that will be put on the mesh now along this fold line here it is Lower part of your feeder we bend this upper part inside this one below, that is, along this line we bend so that this is the inner part here this part of the upper upper part of the feeder goes into the lower one so this is how it turned out here it is the upper part She entered inside the bottom.
Feeders here they are the walls of the lower part, they remained outside, here they knocked with a hammer from below, so further here in this place we make a mark where we have two upper and lower parts.
Intersect we make such a mark in the position when the upper part of us stands like this and then cut off our side protrudes which here we make an incision and bend this side of the wave and here we make an incision and bend this side inward so here from the Lie incision were these pieces cut and bent here? We bent inward now we combine these two parts, upper and lower, so that they stand at an angle of 90 degrees, like this and so: in this place in this place we drill a through hole through both parts here in this place.
Approximately, and so you drilled a hole on this side and on that side a through hole through this part, and this part of this position, when we drilled a hole like this, we insert our second workpiece this front wall, which is 36 half centimeters, here we are and inserted it inside. Inside this one here in the back wall, we insert it in this way, we press it down tightly so that it all goes into the back part up, we make a protrusion a little.
Approximately 7, 7 centimeters should turn out upward, and so 7 centimeters the top of the anise has survived. We press tightly now, through these holes with a marker, we make a mark on this part on the front on this side and on the other side, we noted we pull it back, this part and drill holes.
The hole was drilled according to the designated holes, the front part was put back, and through all three, a clip was placed on the wall for riveting from the back side, the same further.
Drilled from above, a centimeter from the top, somewhere, too, a hole through two walls through the back through the front was drilled, the same was riveted, the upper part turned out to be 6 half centimeters, this is in my case because with me and whose mesh does not allow you to do more, you can, but it will already be heavy, that is, the karma will interfere more, it will bend the mesh a little for me, this is the best option, here it was possible not to do the clip, it just happened, so this wall protruded a little, not here I had to drill too a hole, and I did not rivet anything on this side I did not begin to make rivets from above and below, so from the remaining pieces of polycarbonate, I make such caps for these very feeders, we offend such a square of polycarbonate in size, one size should coincide with the width of the feeder, and this size the depth of the cow should be a little more, that is, this is how they made such a handle out of ordinary wire and all together where is the inserted hand ka in the center we make such a bend to close the feeder we hold by the handle we bend the lid ourselves we insert it and the upper part of the lid just sits on these upper clips and then it does not fall through Here behind this the loaf and the lid hold we fill the food with a lid and no dust.
Hay is not mud. No good feeder, we do not have feed, always clean squos, these are the cuts. All dust, small feed is filled up, it remains only from selenium, good feed or compound feed or wheat, what you will feed it does not matter, that is, all the little things.
Flies down, if the cage has your wooden walls made of wood, that is, you hang there is a feeder flowing from the inside, then here on the back we make a hole on the wall in the cage, we screw a self-tapping screw, we simply insert it into the feeder, all for this self-tapping screw and she calmly hangs performed.
Rabbits also eat food, it must be installed, a little higher from the floor, five centimeters from the bottom. The feeders were raised, they were suspended, but if outside, as I already showed at the wooden wall of the cage, then we cut out the walls of the hole, insert the feeder, and on the front of the feeder we make the same hole.
Profile bunker feeder for rabbits
We will not cut the fold into it, this part is so here it is. 58 centimeters the main part of the trough goes further the front part of the trough this is 36 and a half centimeters, so I marked one edge and 2 line.
The cut could, of course, in order to save money, measure from here and this part, that is, cut off, so as not to throw out this piece, and then close this hole with clips, take the same plate, for example, they laid the plate drilled: holes and clips.
They pulled it in, so it will be to me, of course, I decided to cut it off, so as not to waste time, this piece will still go somewhere else so that we cut off a whole piece of 36, cut off half a centimeter, we two parts that piece in common.
58 centimeters is 36 half where the places were cut. We carefully clean the cuts, with the same grinder you can, so as not to leave burrs and not to cut yourself later, so that the rabbit cuts himself, so in this in the main part it means that we cut off here only these sides between the 10 centimeters segment and the 40 centimeters segment of the line cut, right here here, And on the other hand, like this, here is a cut, which is a cut of 8 centimeters, we do not cut it here, we will have lines.
The fold, that is, here is the line, the fold will be here. We only cut off this part, then we need to unbend these bumpers so that this part is straight here here, and on this part we also take both sides for this, this part is the side.
We apply. Something solid wood can be used to a metal surface and with a hammer, so along the entire length we tap and straighten this side to fully unbend it, now you have dispersed the sides, now our blanks are the main one and here they are completely straight side side this side and this and here also no sides Further on the main part to the main part here we cut off bend this side and here it is not up to the end, but to unbend a more or less flat one, we have dispersed a lot of bending, it is not necessary here, quite a bit, this is still done in order to make it more convenient for us to modify the workpiece all this is temporary then this part will be back.
To bend, therefore, again, approximately like this, you bent it, then turn it over and do the following: markup and so here we draw a line.
How to make a rabbit bunker feeder
Roulette marker screwdriver flat hammer such a clip ator rivet and to it a screwdriver or a drill with a thin drill the drill should be slightly thicker than the clips, but the pliers also make markings in order for us to cut off the workpieces so the feeder itself will consist of two parts here is such a Part I move the main part, so the front part will be measured, which means that the first part, this is the main one, we make its markings so total length total length 58 58 centimeters total length, here it is a part from here to here, and mark this first segment.
8 centimeters further goes 10 centimeters and the last piece. We mark 40 centimeters on the sides, too, draw cutting lines on this side, the same is true here, I crossed out here we will have a line.
Galvanized bunker feeder for rabbits
We screw the self-tapping screw into the wall, put on the feeder hanging, and at the back we are already making fasteners so that the rabbit does not push the feeder out into the street, but the thickness of the wall must be taken into account if you are going to use this method from the outside, when you insert the feeder from the outside, if the wall, for example, is a centimeter or two centimeters, that you need to make the feeder a little bit longer, that is, this lower part should be lengthened to take into account the thickness of the cage wall and one more important point if you are going to use it as an external feeder, insert it from the outside, then this front part should be made even it means slopes like mine here here you see a ledge It turned out here, tightly and there is such a slight slope; if outside, you will do, then there should not be any inclinations, this wall should be flat because this part of the feeder it will press against the wall, it will press exactly anise to the wall.
The feeders will already be raised up, this will not be correct, that is, for external use, this wall, we do it exactly, you can even make it wider when it hangs on a wooden wall, but it can withstand any weight with a self-tapping screw.
Feed can be poured 234 kilograms higher and longer and make this feeder and the distance here is not like me. I made 6 half centimeters, but you can do it to the maximum, so that the main thing is to fasten both parts to the maximum, let it be.
8, for example, centimeters and below we do the same. 8 centimeters: we will have the front part to stand straight, and, of course, we will have to make this lower part longer so that the rabbits can freely get food, so I have one more installed.
The feeder wanted to show how it is hooked to the net with hooks, it works well, it enters these feeders at my feet.
Two kilograms, probably two kilograms for sure, this is my German motley giant babies 2 months 1 tonics there, I have everywhere, if the form, and here is another girl, another girl.
Pumping is waiting for its new owner; soon it will go to me not already california. Nyusha has a new feeder waiting for us, now we have prepared a new feeder, we will remove this top cup, which they all rake out, pour it out and put a normal feeder, like her neighbor, Gerda’s hearing.
How to make a feeder at home?
When making any utensils for the rabbitry, it should be remembered that it should be simple to maintain and use. The feed must be protected from foreign contamination. The hygienic condition of the equipment must be proper. Professional breeders can make a trough or nursery in 30 minutes. Various materials for manufacturing.
Let’s talk about what production for beginners will look like. The first thing that should be is the tool. Prepare the drawings you need. Professionals recommend that you print the drawing and decompose it into its component parts. This is done in order to understand the correctness and sequence of collecting the feeder you need.
Making a bunker feeder
- Metal scissors
- Drill 6 mm
- Wood screws 35mm 6 pcs. And 25 mm 6 pieces.
- Two bolts with 6 mm nuts
- Chipboard or board-twenty 2 pcs. Size 15 by 30 mm (side panels), 1 pc. Size 190 by 300 (back wall)
- Metal mesh size 155 by 290
- Tinplate 1 pc. Size 195mm by 265mm (hopper base, inner wall)
- Tinplate 1 pc. Width 185mm, Height 135mm (front wall).
Bunker trough drawing
- We assemble the frame by connecting the side walls and the back with 4 screws 35mm.
- On the front wall of sheet metal, we make cuts with a depth of 30 mm at a distance of 20 mm from the edge and a slot in the middle with a width of 3 mm. We bend the resulting “wings” at an angle of 90 degrees.
- We bolt the mesh to the front wall end-to-end to the bent edge exactly in the middle.
- We insert the front wall with a net into the feeder and fix it with screws. In this case, the rear part of the net “lies” on the rear wall of the feeder in a bend.
- We bend Z-shaped hopper base made of tin and insert it into the feeder from above.
Features of feeders
The most practical today is the bunker feeder for rabbits. Granulated feed or grain in the process of eating it by animals evenly, by gravity, fills the receiving tray and there is kept at the desired level. The food does not spill out. That has a positive effect on the hygienic state of the cage and has a beneficial effect on rabbits. The big plus of such feeders is undoubtedly the large volume of the bunker. Thanks to this, the stored feed in the container is enough for several days. This type of feeder is often used in farms that are located in areas remote from the place of residence. There are feeders of the following types:
- Bunker with transverse partitions;
- Round bunker.
Trough feeders are widely used both in amateur rabbit breeding and on farms. Very lightweight and easy to assemble. Drawings of such feeders can be read by everyone and made with their own hands. They can be of different lengths, and therefore many rabbits can eat from one feeder. The most optimal shape for this type is considered to be conical. These feeders have a narrow bottom and therefore the selection of feed by animals is much better.
Sennik nurseries are often used in small and medium-sized farms. Experts recommend making a nursery with your own hands. According to professionals, the process of feeding animals will be more hygienic and practical. When rabbits eat grass or hay, they do not scatter feed throughout the cage. As a result, animal droppings do not mix, and this simplifies cage cleaning and feed consumption. The good thing about the nursery is that the food is evenly distributed among the pets. This gives no way for the dominant animal to drive off the rest of the rabbits.
Almost all types of feeders are easy to assemble and therefore, making them yourself will not be difficult. When choosing the type of feeder, think about what your farm will be like. How many rabbits will you have? An important point is the location of the rabbitry. After all this, feel free to start making feeders.
Types of feeders
The rabbit feeder belongs to this type of equipment that significantly saves time and effort, maintains the correct diet for the animal, and significantly increases the hygienic conditions in the cage. And the fact that the rabbits’ trip to the feeding trough is 26-30 times a day speaks of its importance. There are the following types of feeders:
- Ceramic bowls. Typically factory made. They look pretty, but animals often turn them over.
- Nursery. Used to feed rabbits with hay and grass. Practical, but requires frequent attention to replenish feed.
- Groove feeders. Serve for feeding with root crops, concentrated and forage. Easy to manufacture. Provides access to feed for large numbers of rabbits.
- Bunker feeders for rabbits. Used for bulk and granular feed. The type of design prevents the scattering and trampling of feed, and the feeder itself is replenished once every few days.
- Cup feeders. It can be metal (used cans), concrete or clay. They are used for granular and bulk feed. Can serve as drinkers for rabbits.
Rabbit eating hay from the feeder
What materials are used to make feeders?
The recommended material for manufacturing is thin sheet metal and other metal products and profiles. Although experienced farmers use wood, plank, plywood, plastic, plexiglass, slate (bunker feeders are often made from different materials).
Auxiliary materials are wire, rod, glass. If tin or metal is not taken as a basis, then in this case it will be necessary to sheathe the places where the rabbits will most likely gnaw through parts of the structure.
You will face many difficulties. The correctness of the choice of cages and feeders for rabbits, dietary regimes, hygienic condition, types of feed. You need to make the correct calculations, study well the drawings of the cages and feeders, shoe yourself with literature.
How to make a rabbit feeder yourself
The desire to have a rabbit or even to engage in rabbit breeding is always associated with certain problems. Which cages to use, which rabbit feeders are best to use? All of this will lead to certain costs. You can save money. Option one. take drawings and make do-it-yourself feeders.
Often there are such cases when all of their pets die en masse among novice rabbit breeders. There can be many reasons. One of the most important is unsanitary conditions, which, in combination with poor nutrition and feed dosage, leads to such disastrous consequences. If you decide to get yourself rabbits, remember the importance of choosing the right feeder.
How to make a simple metal structure?
There is one simple and quick option for how to make a metal feeder with your own hands. Let’s consider the basic manufacturing technique. You can easily find drawings on the Internet.
- You need to take sheet metal and cut out two parts from it that will correspond to the outer contour of the drawing.
- Take these two pieces and make four cuts by bending the sheet along the lines indicated in the drawing. Use pliers for convenience and safety.
- To make it easier to bend the sheet, carefully make shallow notches along the fold lines with the tip of a knife. These serifs should be half the thickness of the sheet.
- Start assembling. Bend the workpieces as shown in the drawing. File or emery all sharp corners and edges.
Important tips and subtleties
If you decide not to buy feeders, but to make them yourself, then you should take these tips into service:
- All equipment and all utensils for rabbit breeding must be practical, easy to care for, hygienic;
- If the trough is not made of pure metal or tin, exclude gnawing of its elements;
- Minimize feed contamination;
- The feeder should contain a daily amount of food, otherwise the rabbits will crawl into it and shit there (the exception is bunker feeders);
- The feeder should be comfortable for pets;
- The trough must be secured firmly to prevent it from overturning or falling.
How to make your own rabbit bunker feeder
Added by: Ekaterina Staselko on April 23
To raise rabbits, you need to create the necessary conditions. Rabbit breeders prefer to use hopper feeders. This design not only saves time, but also helps maintain the correct diet for rabbits.
The device and advantages of a hopper feeder
The bunker for rabbits is a box. Three walls are located vertically, and the front one is at an angle, so that it is convenient to fill the food and easy to clean this structure. To protect animals from atmospheric precipitation, mice and birds, there is a visor on top of the box. At the bottom of the hopper there is a slot through which the feed flows directly into the tray. At the bottom there is a dust collector in the form of a mesh or a homemade sieve, which is designed to collect flour dust. In addition, the mesh prevents condensation at the bottom of the structure.
General view of the structure empty and filled
The hopper feeder can be of several types:
- With transverse partitions.
The principle of operation of the design: as the feed is eaten and the trays are empty, the food automatically flows from the hopper into the tray. In this case, the food is laid for several meals. As a result, the farmer will have more time and the rabbits will have constant access to feed. Mainly, hopper feeders are used for feeding bulk and granular feed.
The main advantages of using a hopper feeder:
- Saving time;
- Facilitating the work of the farmer;
- Free access to feed;
- Automatic screening of dust from feed;
- Mount anywhere you like.
Rabbit structures should be simple and easy to use, with minimal costs. Most often, farmers make feeders for breeding rabbits from scrap materials.
When making a feeder, use:
- Metal profiles;
Glass, wire or rod are selected from auxiliary materials.
A bunker feeder is usually made of wood or metal. The metal structure is more durable and stronger, but the wooden feeders are more environmentally friendly.
The use of a plastic structure is not recommended, as due to the low strength, there is a high probability that animals will break the feeder. In addition, plastic structures can deform at high temperatures and crack at low temperatures.
Slate is commonly used to make creches. In a bunker-type feeder, this material is used in the construction of the side and rear walls. All sharp edges and jagged edges should be ironed out so that the pet rabbits do not damage their skin.
Tools for work
Having decided on the choice of material for the structure, you should prepare the necessary tools. When constructing a metal feeder you will need:
- Scissors for metal;
- Tin sheet;
- Metal grid.
For the bunker base, a sheet of 195 × 265 mm will be used, for the front wall. 185 × 135 mm. The metal mesh should be purchased in the size 155 × 290 mm.
The table shows the main parameters of the parts and their number that will be needed to create a wooden bunker feeder:
In addition to galvanized iron, bunker feeders for rabbits can also be made of sheet slate, plexiglass, plywood, wood or other scrap materials. Consider making a rabbit feeder made of wood.
First you need to take measurements of the feeder, which will depend on the size of the cage. Also, do not forget to stock up on high-quality lumber, the most suitable option for which would be an inch board, which is processed on a planer.
All the edges of the timber structure will have ninety degree angles. The height of the trough was ten centimeters. In general, the designed capacity of the rabbit feeder should be square and measure forty by forty centimeters. In total, for the construction of the feeder, eight planks made from an inch board will be required, four of which will be used for the construction of the bottom, and four for the manufacture of the sides. Next, you should knock down the bottom of the trough and put it on a flat surface. Attach the prepared sidewalls to its end part, screwing them with self-tapping screws on wood.
Instructions for making a bunker-type feeder from a tin can
When starting to make a do-it-yourself rabbit feeder, you should first make the correct calculations, while having thoroughly studied the drawings of the future feeders and the cells themselves in advance. If the choice stopped at making a bunker-type feeder from a tin can, then you need to stock up on it. A three-liter tin can of tomato paste is best suited. It is also necessary to prepare for work a drill with a drill and a device for cutting tin.
Before starting work, the tin container is cleaned of the contents. Next, you need to do the following:
- Half a tin can is cut off, not across, but along, while the bottom of the can remains untouched;
- Further, in the bottom of the can, a lot of holes are drilled with a drill, and from the remaining, cut off part of the can, a certain wall is made and attached to the feeder.
- The finished product is screwed to the cage door.
The finished type of construction will look somewhat clumsy. However, due to the simplicity of this design and ease of installation, it received undeniable advantages over other types of bunker feeders for rabbits.
Types of rabbit feeders
The rabbit feeder itself is a tool that helps to significantly save time and effort required to maintain a proper diet, and also significantly increases the sanitary and hygienic conditions of the cage. It is important to know that during the day the rabbit’s approach to the feeder can be up to thirty times.
So, all rabbit feeders can be divided into the following types:
Ceramic bowls. These products look beautiful and aesthetically pleasing, but they are factory-made. Animals often turn them over.
DIY materials for making rabbit feeders
The recommended material for making do-it-yourself rabbit feeders includes thin sheet metal, as well as other metal (tin) products and profiles. In addition, experienced farmers make extensive use of wood, including planks and plywood, in making feeders. You can also use plastic and plexiglass, slate, which are suitable for the manufacture of bunker feeders.
Auxiliary materials include wire and rod, as well as glass. They are used to sew on places of feeders that do not contain metal, which the rabbit can easily chew. In addition, so that the rabbit does not damage its skin, it is recommended to smooth out the sharp edges of the feeders and the resulting notches.
DIY galvanized bunker feeder
For experienced tinsmiths who have the necessary tools at hand, it is not difficult to build a galvanized bunker feeder with your own hands. However, such a feeder can also be made by a person who does not have the skills. The only thing he will need is to observe safety precautions when working with galvanizing and arm himself with a detailed diagram (drawing) for the manufacture of a bunker feeder.
Instructions for making a simple galvanized metal feeder without any problems.
- 1.First, it is necessary to cut out the details from the sheet according to the drawing. Next, you need to make four cuts on them and bend the sheet with pliers along the lines indicated in the drawing.
- 2.To make the sheet easy to bend, it is recommended to carefully make cuts along the fold lines to half the thickness of the galvanized sheet using a knife.
- 3.After the parts are made, it is necessary to assemble the bunker feeder according to the scheme, sawing sharp corners with a file.
People who decide to start breeding rabbits should approach this undertaking with full responsibility. One of the tasks that confront them in the first place will be the preparation of cages and feeders for rabbits. What are the best feeders to use to make them convenient and cost effective??
Important tips for making DIY rabbit feeders
When constructing feeders for rabbits with your own hands, you should adopt a few tips:
- All equipment to be constructed, including utensils for rabbits, must be practical, easy to clean and hygienic;
- When making feeders not made of pure metal (tin), it is important to exclude rabbits from nibbling items of inventory in advance;
- Contamination of the feed should be minimized;
- The made feeder must contain a daily amount of food, otherwise the rabbits can simply crawl into it and shit (bunker feeders are an exception to these rules);
- The feeder must be built convenient for your pets;
- The feeders must be fastened firmly to prevent them from overturning or falling.
See and how to make a do-it-yourself rabbit feeder