Rescue Abandoned Puppies Building Mud House Dog And Fish Pond For Red Fish
Conifers are not bad for making booths. Such wood is both relatively inexpensive and quite environmentally friendly. With beams 4040 cm in diameter and creative approach, you can build a booth from beams. Such a booth is not only much warmer than its analogue made of boards, but also looks unrealistically beautiful.!
Typically, a sturdy sheet of plywood or board is used as the side walls. If the winter in this region is harsh, you can additionally sheathe the booth with insulation.
Also, it is very important: the boards must be treated with a moisture-resistant impregnation, or, in extreme cases, cover the booth with plastic wrap. Otherwise, under the influence of precipitation, the tree will sooner or later begin to rot.
What tools are needed to make a booth? A hammer, a hacksaw, nails and a chisel will be enough.
As always, the first thing to do is calculate the dimensions correctly. How comfortable, comfortable and warm the dog will be depends on their correctness. Is it worth mentioning that the booth should not be cramped? But it shouldn’t be too big either, otherwise the dog will be cold in it in winter.
If the dog is already an adult, then everything is simple: you can measure its dimensions, and based on them, calculate everything in 5 minutes. A very simple formula is used for this:
- The depth should be 5 cm more than the length of the dog
- Height. 5 cm more than the height of the dog
- The width is the same as the height.
- The width of the hole is 5 cm more than the girth of the chest
- The height of the manhole is 5 cm more than the height of the pet in the area of the withers
Such parameters allow you to calculate the size so that the dog will be both comfortable and warm at the same time. It should be easy for her to turn around, scratch behind her ear, lie down, and at the same time, close enough to keep warm.
Having calculated the dimensions, you can select materials, choose the shape of the “house” and draw a diagram. Having sketched and edited the sketch, it is advisable to draw it cleanly, so as not to confuse anything later. The appearance and shape can be anything, it depends entirely on the exterior and the wishes of the owner. There are several useful recommendations in this regard.
It is advisable to make the entrance slightly offset to the left or right from the center. Also, it must be done from the side of the long part of the booth.
Attention! When installing the booth, make sure that there are no nails, screws, or wood burrs sticking out from the inside. When a dog is bitten by fleas, it itches, while making sudden movements. The protruding sharp parts of the structure can injure the animal.
In the absence of any building skills, it is recommended to make a warm kennel for a dog with a pitched roof. But the gable roof looks much more beautiful, and gives more space to the dog.
You can make just a square cube, and above it a small attic, which will store toys for the dog, dishes, a leash, and other little things. You can also store food there, although many owners argue that this is not a good idea, since the four-legged friend smells food and tries to get it.
If you build a small canopy over the booth, the pet will no longer have to hide from the rain in the booth every time.
Do-it-yourself dog booth: a master class on building the best house for pets (95 photos)
Living in a private house and acquiring a dog, the owner unexpectedly encounters a problem: with the onset of bad weather, the dog has nowhere to hide. You have to think about building a comfortable home for your pet. It can be cold at night even in summer, so it is advisable that the booth be insulated. It is not necessary to have any construction skills for this.
Making a kennel begins with assembling the base. It is made from bars of 4040 mm. They are cut to size and fastened with self-tapping screws (so that you get a rectangle). If the weight of the dog is large enough, it is advisable to strengthen the base with an additional transverse bar. It is advisable to make the floor two-layer, and place a little insulation between the layers.
After planking the floor, the frame is turned upside down. The inner surface is covered with glassine, and foam is placed on top of it. All this is covered with a clean floor.
It is advisable to put such a “pallet” on its legs. small blocks nailed to it from below. This will provide air circulation. Side racks made of 100 100 mm bars form a frame, walls are stuffed on top of them.
It is also necessary to build a manhole at the entrance. From the inside, the frame is insulated in the same way as the floor, and from the outside. with clapboard or any other decorative material.
How to install the booth correctly.
The booth should be installed in such a way that the dog has an overview of the gates or doors of the yard in which he lives and guards. Thus, it will be convenient for her to observe the situation on her territory. Also, it is advisable to place the booth in the shade so that it heats up less in summer.
The floor of the booth must never touch the ground. There must be a distance of at least 15 cm between the floor and the ground. This space is necessary to provide ventilation in the underfloor space. If the floor is not raised enough above the ground, moisture will accumulate under it and create increased humidity inside the room, which will contribute to the reproduction of parasites, and this, in turn, will adversely affect the health of the dog.
For the manufacture of a simple booth without insulation, it is best to use a Punto coniferous board or plywood. This will avoid cracks in the booth structure. Plywood should be chosen moisture resistant. Such plywood is less prone to delamination and swelling when wet.
Criteria for choosing the size of the booth
To properly size the booth, you need to understand how the dog uses it. She enters it, turns 180 degrees and lies down either fully stretched out or curled up. Therefore, the dimensions of the inner space of the booth should allow the dog to lie as it is comfortable for him.
The height of the booth inside should be 5-10 cm higher than the height of the dog at the withers. There is an opinion that the dog should stand in the booth in full height with his head. This opinion is erroneous, since the dog booth is a place to rest and sleep. And so the dog in the booth mostly lies. For walks, she will most likely prefer an open courtyard space. In addition, as mentioned above, the large free space in the booth makes it difficult to heat it in the cold season.
The length of the booth inside should be equal to the distance from the tip of the nose to the middle of the dog’s tail, or twice the height of the dog at the withers plus 30 centimeters. This is enough to comfortably lie stretched out to its full height.
The width of the booth inside should be equal to 70% of its length or should be equal to the height of the dog at the withers plus 5 centimeters. In this case, the dog will be able to comfortably lie on its side and turn around inside the booth without any problems.
The height of the manhole should be equal to the height of the dog at the withers minus 10cm.
The width of the manhole opening is the width of the dog’s chest plus 5cm.
Important points in the construction of the booth.
Booths are of two types: insulated and not insulated.
Simple kennels without insulation are suitable for dogs living in warm climates where winters are not so harsh. In cold climates, the booth must be insulated. The insulation, in addition to its main function, covers all the cracks. As a heater, you can use polystyrene, expanded polystyrene or mineral wool. Mineral wool must be wrapped in a vapor barrier, otherwise, over time, it will pull in moisture and lose its thermal insulation properties. The optimal insulation thickness is at least 5cm.
It is not necessary to insulate the floor in the booth. In winter, bedding will serve as insulation. And in summer, the coolness from the ground will reduce the temperature in the booth.
If possible, the hole into the booth is best done with an offset relative to the center of the booth. Thus, the room will be less blown out and the dog will have a cozy and warm sleeping place.
Dogs, by nature, tolerate cold more easily than drafts. Therefore, it is important that the booth has no slots into which the wind can blow. In order to protect the entrance of the booth from the wind, they are made with a vestibule.
Between the vestibule and the main room there should be a sill 10-15cm high. This sill additionally protects from the cold and keeps the bedding inside the booth. If the booth is made without a vestibule, then the sill must be present at the entrance to it.
In winter, the entrance to the booth is necessarily covered with a curtain made of two pieces of felt or old carpet, fixed with an overlap. The curtain is best fixed from the inside of the booth. Then it will normally block the hole after the dog has entered the kennel. If the curtain is fixed from the outside, it may turn out that it will partially enter the inside of the manhole and remain in this position. As a result, the manhole will not be completely closed.
The roof of the booth is best made removable and flat with a slight slope to either side. The roof can be made without a slope, but then the booth will need to be set up with a slight slope relative to the ground level. Dogs love to lie on a hill. Therefore, the flat roof of the booth is an ideal additional resting place. The roof should be covered with roofing material in 2-3 layers. A removable roof is needed for easy cleaning in the booth. The roof must be insulated. This will reduce heat loss in winter and protect the inside of the booth from overheating in the summer heat.
Do-it-yourself dog booth. Blueprints.
To make a good kennel for a dog, you first need to decide on its size. There are no identical and standard parameters. Each kennel is made for a specific dog. For example, a dog may not like a cramped kennel and will not be in it. But too large a booth is also not very good for a dog, since it can freeze in it in the cold season, as it heats the booth with its breath and the warmth of its body.
There are averaged tables of booth sizes, depending on the breed of the dog. If your dog is not purebred, then it can be roughly compared to any suitable in size purebred dog and, thus, the necessary size of the house is determined. But it is best if the booth is made individually for the specific size of the dog.
Booth size table depending on the breed of the dog.
Height: 56 cm
Internal: 105 x 65 x 70 cm
External: 116 x 76 x 93 cm
Internal: 100 x 61 x 66 cm
External: 111 x 72 x 89 cm
Internal: 144 x 65 x 70 cm
External: 155 x 76 x 93 cm
Internal: 139 x 61 x 66 cm
External: 150 x 72 x 89 cm
Height: 50 cm
Height: 46 cm
Height: 65 cm
Internal: 99 x 70 x 75 cm
External: 110 x 81 x 98 cm
Internal: 93 x 65 x 70 cm
External: 104 x 76 x 93 cm
Internal: 141 x 70 x 75 cm
External: 152 x 81 x 98 cm
Internal: 135 x 65 x 70 cm
External: 146 x 76 x 93 cm
Width: 33 cm
Height: 55 cm
Width: 33 cm
Height: 50 cm
Height: 66 cm
Height: 61 cm
Internal: 102 x 76 x 76 cm
External: 113 x 87 x 99 cm
Internal: 97 x 71 x 71 cm
External: 108 x 82 x 94 cm
Internal: 144 x 76 x 76 cm
External: 155 x 87 x 99 cm
Internal: 139 x 71 x 71 cm
External: 150 x 82 x 94 cm
Width: 33 cm
Height: 56 cm
Width: 33 cm
Height: 51 cm
Height: 59 cm
Height: 54 cm
Internal: 100 x 69 x 69 cm
External: 111 x 80 x 92 cm
Internal: 94 x 64 x 64 cm
External: 105 x 75 x 87 cm
Internal: 139 x 69 x 69 cm
External: 150 x 80 x 92 cm
Internal: 133 x 64 x 64 cm
External: 144 x 75 x 87 cm
Height: 49 cm
Height: 44 cm
|Central Asia Shepherd Dog (Alabai)|
Manufacturing process of insulated rectangular booth
We assemble the frame of the bottom of the booth from wooden bars with a section of 50x50mm and boards. We put foam plastic inside the frame and sew it up with a board.
We assemble the frame of the booth and fasten it to the bottom with self-tapping screws.
Next, we sheathe the frame from the inside with a plywood sheet 4-6mm thick.
Now you need to insulate the frame with foam.
The removable roof of the booth is made in a similar way. First, the lattice of the roof frame is made of wooden bars, then the roof boards are attached to the frame, then the insulation is laid and sheathed with plywood sheet.
The booth is almost ready. It remains to cover the roof with roofing felt and paint the outer sides of the booth. Outside, the booth can be treated with an antiseptic and painted with varnish or simply painted with paint.
Materials and tools
So, you have decided on the type of structure. Now you need to find a suitable place for construction. It is advisable that this is not a lowland, which will be flooded by water during rains and that there is any structure nearby that will give shade to shelter the animal in hot seasons.
Now it’s time to gather materials and select the right tools. You will need:
- saw (hacksaw);
- a medium-sized hammer (preferably with a nail puller);
- a screwdriver or screwdriver (although it is a serious feat to wrap a couple of hundred self-tapping screws by hand);
- self-tapping screws;
Coniferous wood is an almost ideal material for such structures. The frame is easy to make from a bar of 50 × 50 or even 40 × 40. The floors are solid planks, but thick, waterproof plywood can also be used. With plywood or clapboard, the booth is sheathed from the inside.
Project and drawing creation
The easiest way to build a doghouse is in the shape of a rectangle or square. It should be noted right away that even if this is not your pet’s permanent home, then, taking into account the peculiarities of the domestic climate, even for a short-term settlement, an insulated structure will be required and it is highly desirable. with a vestibule that creates additional thermal insulation. It is better to make the outer cladding from plastic lining, it will last longer, but wooden is also suitable. Definitely, metal should not be used for the casing, otherwise the dog will have nothing to breathe inside the booth in the summer.
The roof should be made removable, this will allow you to periodically put things in order inside the structure without unnecessary difficulty. Can be mounted on conventional door hinges.
All types of heat-insulating materials can be used as insulation, except for mineral and glass wool. For a gable roof, rectangular side panels are required, when choosing a single-pitch version, two side walls should be designed in the form of a trapezoid to ensure the desired roof slope. He should go to the back wall, not to the entrance to the booth. If you plan to install a canopy above it, then the roof can be made without any slopes at all.
When choosing sizes, you should take as a basis the dimensions of an adult dog of your breed. 15 centimeters are added to the height at the withers, the depth and width of the structure are equal to the full height of the dog (to the tips of the ears) plus 10-15 centimeters. Tambour is usually made 50-60 centimeters wide.
A drawing is desirable, but not required. With a minimal spatial imagination, it is sufficient if you are able to visualize the appearance of the future structure in your mind. To facilitate this task, you can choose a suitable option for a dog booth according to the photo located in this article.
Types of kennels
There are a great many varieties of such mini-buildings.
Typical options include the following:
- booths with one room;
- booths with a vestibule;
- shed roof booths;
- booths with a gable roof;
- kennel booths for dogs (with a fenced adjoining area).
Of course, the existing projects are not limited to the above list; some animal owners build real mansions for their pets. But it is unlikely that four-legged friends are able to appreciate such care. the main thing for them is that the rain does not fall on them, that they feel comfortable, spacious, they can freely enter and exit their own dwelling, and that it is warm there. It is important for people that the new building fits organically enough into the landscape of the site. After all, this is not only your pet’s dwelling, but also an element of the so-called “small architecture”. From this you should proceed if you build a dog booth according to your own design with your own hands. Of course, at the same time you need to stay within the limits of your financial capabilities.
Making a dog kennel with our own hands
You have a new family member. He is four-legged, tailed and friendly. This is definitely cause for joy. However, the first step is to resolve the issue with the choice of his place of residence.
Not all dog breeds are able to feel comfortable in an apartment. And many owners of suburban dwellings acquire a dog as a guard. And city families, during long visits to the dacha, need to find their own place for the dog. After all, the house was built with only two-legged inhabitants in mind. The solution to the problem is a regular kennel.
Of course, typical samples of such structures are also sold, however, a do-it-yourself dog booth for a dog, according to an individual project, which takes into account all the significant points. breed, climate, plot area and many others, will create a much higher level of comfort for your four-legged pet than the standard model. And even a small specialist in carpentry is capable of making a house for an animal. How to do this we will discuss today.
- We assemble the cut-to-size timber into frames using self-tapping screws.
- With nails or, again, self-tapping screws, we fill the outer sheathing boards on the frames, after which we lay a layer of insulation.
- We fill the inner wall. Then we sheathe the inner walls with the selected material, fasten everything together into a single structure.
- From below we insert the floor boards (preferably shpuntovye, in order to avoid the appearance of gaps), fix them in place.
- Turning the booth on its side, we insulate the floor, then hem.
- We insert the inner partition with a manhole made in it, closed with a curtain made of dense fabric, similarly close the outer manhole.
- Panels for a pitched or gable roof are made in the same way as the side walls. Then it is covered with any moisture-proof material. roofing material, etc.
- The roof, as mentioned above, is installed on hinges, with the ability to recline to one side.
- We saturate the wood with fire retardants and antiseptics.
The do-it-yourself dog booth is ready. As you can see, you don’t need to make too much effort to ensure that your pet has its own personal home.
How to make a dog booth warm: waterproofing and insulation
In order to make the bottom of the booth moisture resistant, turn the structure on its side and treat the bottom with Senezh antispetic impregnation. Then fix the roofing material at the bottom of the booth and nail in two more additional reinforcing beams 100×50, also treating them with an antiseptic. Before laying the floor in the booth, cover the bottom from the inside with glassine, securing it with a stapler. Next, we put the insulation, and on top of it. another layer of glassine (it is necessary so that the glass wool particles from the insulation do not get into the inner space of the booth).
If the bottom is insulated, you can lay a clean floor. The walls of the booth are insulated in the same way. After the floor and walls are sheathed, the threshold and the frame of the entrance manhole are made.
Building a kennel for dogs: making a frame and bottom
It is best to start making a dog kennel from the bottom. It is important that the floor is warm and does not have crevices, which not only contribute to drafts, but can also cause injury if the dog suddenly gets stuck in them with a claw. The base (Karsk) for the bottom will be 40×40 bars, and a floorboard is usually used as a flooring. After the bottom of the booth is made, 4 bars 100×100 are attached vertically to it in each corner, which will become the basis for the walls. Between them it is necessary to install intermediate bars 40×40, equal in length to the inner height of the booth, to support the roof. You can also add two additional 40×40 bars, which will mark the entrance.
Making a dog kennel with our own hands
DIY dog booth
When starting to build a dog house, first of all, decide on its location. The booth should be in a bright and always dry place, but it is desirable that there is a shadow next to it. It is best to put the booth at a point where the dog has the most complete view of the house and site: deprived of the opportunity to visually “control the territory”, your pet will be worried and uncomfortable. It is also important that the kennel is located at a certain elevation in order to avoid the accumulation of moisture and other precipitation under it. But it is best to put the booth not on the ground, but on a foundation of wooden beams covered with roofing felt. this way you will provide additional ventilation and protection from moisture. It is best to build a universal booth, designed for both warm and cold weather. In order to make the kennel warmer, it is usually divided into two parts. a “vestibule” with an exit hole and a “sleeping place” where the dog can take shelter from the cold.
Building a kennel for a dog: determining the size
After the location is determined, you need to calculate the size of the future house for your pet. To do this, you need to take measurements from the animal according to the following scheme: Height of the booth = height of the dog at the withers 10-15 cm Take into account the height of the rug or bedding in the booth. The optimum is the height at which the dog can sit in the booth without touching the ceiling with his head and move around in it with his head tilted. The depth of the booth should allow the dog to lie on its side with its legs extended freely. Accordingly, this indicator is calculated as follows: the distance from the withers to the tips of the front paws in a dog lying on its side is 10-15 cm. The width of the booth is the total width of the vestibule and berth. The width of the berth is determined by measuring the distance from the tailbone of the dog to its nose 10 cm. The width of the vestibule is made based on the build of the dog, so that it can freely go out and enter the booth. Manhole height = height at withers minus 5-9 cm Manhole width = width of the dog’s chest plus 5-8 cm
Important! Do not make the booth too spacious, since the larger the room, the more difficult it is to warm it up in the cold season.
In some cases, it is advisable to make the vestibule large, so that the dog will lie there on its side in hot weather, while the sleeping place is made smaller, and in it the dog lies curled up in winter. In this case, the overall dimensions of the dog booth will not change, but the length and width of the vestibule and berth are calculated differently.
After you have decided on the size and location, draw a rough sketch and, based on it, a drawing of the dog house. This is necessary in order to correctly calculate the types and quantities of building materials. The optimal material for making do-it-yourself booths is coniferous wood. You will need: bars 100×100 and 40×40, 100×50, lining, floorboard, plywood, decorative slats, galvanized nails, roofing material, bituminous tiles, glassine, mineral wool, pinotext, antiseptic impregnation (senezh, etc.), tarpaulin, sand, polyethylene.
Making the roof of a doghouse
The most important thing is to make the roof structure such that it can be completely removed or reclined if necessary. This can be useful for cleaning the kennel, as well as providing urgent veterinary care to the dog. According to the type of roofs, all booths can be divided into two types: those in which the roof is also the ceiling, and those where the ceiling and roof are made separately, i.e. between the ceiling and the roof itself there is a kind of “attic”. The first type of roof is acceptable if the booth is located in an aviary or under an external canopy. For a dog house standing separately in the open air, it makes sense to choose the second version of the roof design, when the ceiling and roof are made separately, or to make the cover of the booth at an angle so that moisture does not accumulate on it. For the manufacture of the ceiling, you can use the same 40×40 bars and plywood in size. For a large booth, by the way, additional bars are cut in the middle both to the bottom and to the ceiling, so that the plywood does not sag under the weight of the dog. The ceiling can be insulated with glassine, foam or mineral wool for insulation. After the first sheet of plywood is laid with insulation, the second sheet is sewn on top, and we get a double insulated ceiling. For convenience, you can make a handle on the surface of the ceiling. If you do not plan to make a roof and the booth is under the open sky without a canopy, then the roof top is covered with roofing material and bituminous tiles to protect the booth from moisture.
Important! If you are going to make a roof for a booth, in no case do not attach it immediately after installing the ceiling.
Making a booth for a dog: wall cladding and ceiling making
It is better to sheathe the inside of the dog booth with wooden clapboard. It is undesirable to use plywood, as it tends to exfoliate over time. For cladding external walls, it is necessary to choose a material that will be resistant to moisture and precipitation, the best option. the same lining or block house. It is not recommended to sheathe the outside of the kennel with metal sheets. in extreme cases, you can use a plastic Euro lining. Galvanized nails with small heads are used to fix the cladding.
Roofing and additional insulation of the entrance
The work of assembling the roof begins with the manufacture of gables. “Perimeters” are assembled from 40×40 bars, which can be sheathed with clapboard, and riveted glassine from the inside. Also at this stage, holes are cut in the front pediment for the “attic”. there you can store a variety of dog supplies and toys.
In order for the roof to be easily removed if necessary, holes are drilled for nails of 7-10 mm in the tori of the corner beams of the booth, after which the nails themselves are inserted into part of their length and the hats are cut off with a hacksaw. The result is metal pins, for which holes are drilled in the gables, after which they are installed in place. After the gables are installed strictly vertically, the lathing can be made and installed. The optimal material is lining or edged board. The roof is covered with roofing material, after which bitumen shingles are laid.
Important! After the booth is ready, the outside can be treated with “pinotex”. But from the inside, painting, varnishing or somehow treating the walls and floor in any case should not be in order to avoid poisoning the dog.!
For additional insulation of the kennel in the cold season, it is advisable to attach a “curtain” made of tarpaulin at the entrance. To prevent the tarpaulin from rising in the wind when the dog is in the booth, take small plastic bags, pour dry sand into them and sew the resulting “weights” in the form of s at the bottom of the curtain. Polyethylene is necessary so that the sand does not get wet and freeze in winter.
How to make a do-it-yourself dog kennel out of boards: photos, drawings and dimensions of a dog kennel
If a dog is a friend of man, then housing for it should be built no worse than for itself: of course, by dog’s standards. This means that the booth should protect the faithful dog from rain, snow and other bad weather. In addition, the dog wants to feel protected while resting, to have a comfortable entrance and other amenities. It is a matter of honor for a good owner to make a doghouse with his own hands, without relying on a purchased product.
Building a Dog Kennel
An example of making a wooden booth with your own hands
Step-by-step scheme for making a wooden booth:
- Make the frame of the floor of the structure from boards and wooden beams with a section of 5×5 cm.Laying foam plastic in it, close it with a board.
- Make the frame of the booth and attach it to the floor with self-tapping screws.
- Install the side pieces to the bottom of the kennel.
- Sheathe the frame from the inside with 4-6 mm plywood.
- Insulate the frame with foam.
- Sheathe the doghouse with a 2 cm thick board.
- Make a removable roof. To do this, first of all, it is necessary to make a lattice of its frame from wooden beams, then attach boards to it, lay insulation and, at the end of this stage, sheathe it with plywood.
- Cover the roof with roofing material.
- Paint the outside walls of the kennel. Its outer surfaces can be treated with an antiseptic composition and varnish applied, or simply resort to painting with paint.
Construction of a kennel-shed
A canopy-shaped dog house is ideal for keeping a four-legged family member in summer and in mild climates. The basis of such a structure is a tetrahedral frame, flooring on the bottom, a 2-pitched or flat roof on 2-3 pairs of rafters.
Such a building can be supplemented with side barriers or screens. In this situation, its width, length and height are 1 m, 1.35 m and 1.5 m, respectively. In this case, the height is measured along the ridge of the roof.
To put together such an option for a dog’s home you will need:
- 4 racks with a section of 4×4 or 5×5 cm and a height of 1 m.
- 2 planks 4×4 or 5×5 cm for the base and top (1.35 m).
- Bars for rafters with a section of 5×5 or 4×6 cm. approximately 2.5 m.
- Planks for cladding with a section of 1-1.5×7-8 cm. about 2 dozen 135-centimeter, a dozen 100-centimeter and 15-18 90-centimeter for flooring.
- Roofing material, the role of which in this example is played by strips of 1×7 cm or another section. Their number is calculated on the basis of covering the roof slopes. For example, if you take strips with a cross section of 1.5×10 cm, you will need 14-15 pieces of them for each slope, provided that their length is 70 cm.
- Assemble the base. To do this, you need to fill the flooring on 2 long bars.
- Mount racks.
- Install the roof base and rafters.
- Enclose the sides and back.
- Make roof decking.
It will not be superfluous to supplement such a structure with a soft mattress. Such a couch will make rest in it comfortable and cozy.
Choosing the right place for the booth
The ideal location of the kennel is a place from where its tailed inhabitant and part-time guard of the yard have a good view of the entrance gate. Nothing should interfere with the dog’s observation of what is happening in the territory entrusted to it. Otherwise, she will be restless. It is recommended to install the house of a four-legged pet not in the sun, but in the shade, otherwise in the summer it will be very hot, and its inhabitant will be uncomfortable in the shelter.
Do not place the booth so that its floor is in contact with the ground. There should be a distance of at least 5 cm between these surfaces. This is necessary for unhindered air circulation in the space under the floor. If you neglect this recommendation, moisture will begin to accumulate under it, as a result of which the structure will be too humid, and all kinds of pathogenic organisms will begin to multiply in it, which sooner or later will lead to health problems for the dog.
How to put together a booth, taking into account all the circumstances
When building a dog house on your own, you must follow a number of recommendations:
- Booths for dogs are insulated and not insulated. The former are intended for animals to live in warm climates with mild winters, the latter with severe ones. As an insulating material, the optimal minimum thickness of which is 5 cm, foam plastic, expanded polystyrene, mineral wool can serve. The latter must be wrapped in a vapor barrier film, otherwise, during operation, it will begin to absorb moisture and gradually lose its heat-saving qualities.
- There is no need for floor insulation in the kennel. In the cold season, the bedding will serve as a heater; in the warm period, the coolness from the ground will compensate for the high air temperature in the pet’s dwelling. When cutting out the manhole, it is recommended to achieve its offset relative to the center of the doghouse. Such a measure will significantly reduce its blowing.
- Dogs tolerate cold much more easily than drafts, therefore, during construction, special efforts must be made to achieve a complete absence of cracks in the kennel. The vestibule will help protect its entrance from the wind. Between it and the main room, it is imperative to make a threshold with a height of 10-15 cm. This part serves as an additional protection from the cold and does not allow the bedding to be outside the dog’s housing. If the structure is not equipped with a vestibule, the sill must be made at the entrance to it. The use of lining with grooves as an external finish will contribute to the absence of cracks in the walls.
- Hay or straw will perfectly cope with the role of bedding. Rags or a rug that has been used up is not the best option. The cleanliness of the litter should be closely monitored, periodically changing it.
- When winter approaches, it is recommended to cover the entrance to the kennel. The best option for a curtain, which is better to be fixed from the inside of the structure, is 2 pieces of felt or unnecessary carpet fixed with an overlap.
- Roofs in dog houses are either pitched or gable. The first option is preferred by most dog owners, because animals have the opportunity to settle down on the roof of the kennel. At the same time, in a smaller room, the air heats up faster. Considering that there is no heating in such a structure, and it is heated only by the heat generated by the body of the four-legged occupant, it will be much warmer in winter. Usually the roofs in such buildings are made of wood. Metal is far from being an actual material, because in the sun it gets hot, but in the cold it does not keep warm. To prevent precipitation from entering the kennel, its roof slope is installed in the opposite direction from the inlet. The angle of inclination of the roof must exceed 5-10 degrees.
- In a dog’s dwelling, you can build a ceiling, and on top. a 2-pitched roof, the angle of inclination of which can vary from 5-60 degrees. It can be made removable or you can build a closet in it for storing toys of a four-legged friend.
How to insulate a winter kennel
There are several ways to insulate a kennel. Each of them has both advantages and disadvantages. When choosing a suitable option, it is recommended to focus on the breed and how the four-legged pet reacts to frost. Dogs with a thick undercoat do not need a thorough insulation of the home. Their brethren with a sparse undercoat, on the contrary, will have hard times in a poorly insulated kennel in winter. Of course, there is no point in warming a home kennel, which is sometimes done in an apartment for a small dog.
There are the following types of kennel heaters:
- Heated booth. Most members of the canine family can easily tolerate low temperatures, provided that the room is dry and free from drafts. Electric heating is capable of maintaining the temperature regime in the structure at the same level, but its four-legged inhabitants do not need to install additional heating devices. this can negatively affect their health. The fact is that leaving a heated room, due to a sharp change in temperature regimes, an animal can, at best, begin to shed untimely, suffer from loss of hair and undercoat, and at worst, catch a cold. In addition, if a curious creature damages the elements of the heater, a fire may occur.
- Mineral wool. This insulation, made of glass by means of high temperatures and drawing of fine fibers, poses no danger to animal health. However, when using it, it is recommended to consider a number of important points. Firstly, this heat insulator absorbs moisture well, therefore, to prevent it from getting wet during installation, it is necessary to use a vapor barrier film even at the construction stage. Secondly, to protect the dog’s respiratory tract from irritation, it is recommended to lay the space between the insulated surface and the mineral wool with perlite. Thirdly, the walls of the kennel must be made thicker.
- Styrofoam, expanded polystyrene. Such heaters are considered more affordable, but they consist of styrene, which emits a pungent chemical odor, which may not please the four-legged inhabitant of the room they insulate. In addition, small rodents are very fond of making nests in this substance. To prevent this from happening, it is recommended to protect the insulation when laying. Along with this, such heaters have a lot of advantages. This is both low, practically zero hygroscopicity, and the absence of a tendency to deformation, and ease of installation.
- Felt and materials at hand. Affordable and safe felt insulation is ideal for insulating small booths. Its advantages: environmental friendliness, resistance even to strong winds and cold weather, excellent vapor permeability, ease of installation. The simplest and cheapest option for insulating doghouses is considered to be used blankets and winter jackets. However, when using them, it must be borne in mind that they are unlikely to protect the four-legged pet from severe frosts and winds, plus, in addition, their service life is extremely short, because the animal can simply gnaw them.
We build a simple kennel from boards step by step according to the drawings
Instructions for building a house for a dog step by step:
- To build a base for a pet’s dwelling with dimensions of 90×70 cm.To do this, after sawing off a pair of beams 70 cm long and sanding several boards 90 cm long, the first ones must be attached with self-tapping screws to the second ones (see the picture).
- Provide space for insulation. Divide a timber with a section of 5×5 cm into 4 parts: two 90 cm long, the remaining 60 cm long. After that, you need to fix the blocks around the perimeter of the base. This can be done with self-tapping screws or nails.
- Prepare insulation of the required size and lay between the bars.
- Make a floor by laying on top of the insulating layer and fixing 90 cm boards with self-tapping screws.
- Erect the side pieces 70 cm apart, which requires 65 cm boards and 40 cm bars to connect them. It is necessary to fix the walls on the base. Metal corners and self-tapping screws will help to cope with this task.
- Make the front and back walls of the structure from 70-centimeter boards and 4-centimeter blocks. In the first, you need to cut an inlet of the desired size and shape.
- All four walls should be connected with self-tapping screws.
- Insulate all wall surfaces, and then sheathe them with boards or OSB.
- Roof with 90cm planks on top.
- Saw off 4 parts from the timber: two 5 cm and two 90 cm. After that, attach them around the entire perimeter of the roof with self-tapping screws.
- Place a heat insulator in the formed recess.
- Make the cladding of the ends of the roof with boards. At the same time, we must not forget about the rear slope for water flow.
- Make the insulation cladding with 90 cm boards.
- Cover the roof. For this purpose, you can use roofing material, slate, corrugated board. It can also be filled with bitumen.
We decide on the size and design
The correct booth for a dog is not built just like that: you need to know what size it is required, where and what size to make a hole, what is better to make and how to insulate.
First of all, they are determined with the size of the dog kennel. The easiest way is to focus on the size of your dog. The height of the dog booth should be 5-6 cm higher than the pet, in width / depth is approximately equal to the length of the body, plus 10-20 cm in length for the ability to stretch out the paws. In general, dog handlers have recommendations for the size of doghouses. They recommend making booths depending on the size of the breed. The data are presented in the table (width / length / height of the doghouse are given in centimeters):
|For large dogs (kennels for Alabai, shepherd dogs)||120||one hundred||one hundred|
|Medium breeds (husky, husky, labrador)||one hundred||80||one hundred|
If your pet does not exceed the average size of its breed, you should not increase the booth: it will be difficult for him to warm it up in winter. Please note that these are internal dimensions, if sheathing is planned, the dimensions are increased by the thickness of the walls.
What to build from and what to insulate
Most often, a doghouse is made of wood or wood-based materials. Wood is preferable. it keeps it cool in summer and warm in winter. In it, the dog will quite comfortably endure the winter if the boards are fitted tightly, there are no cracks, even with a single wall the wooden booth is warm. So that, by the way, the booth for the dog turns out without gaps, they use an edged board, sometimes even shrunken.
Concrete and brick booths are not the best choice: they conduct heat well, in summer it is too hot in them, in winter it is very cold. That is why dogs often prefer to spend the night in the open, and not in a brick kennel.
If wood is too expensive, use boards for the frame, and everything else can be made from OSB, fiberboard, plywood. If you use sheet wood material, you may need two layers of it: it is still much thinner than wood and, due to the presence of a binder, has better thermal conductivity (it retains heat worse). Therefore, in this case, you can think about insulating the booth for the winter.
Plywood doghouse: an example of insulation
You can insulate with any suitable material. You can use the leftovers from the construction of a house, a summer residence, a bath. It can be rock wool (as in the photo), foam or other material. When insulating with foam, do not overdo it: it does not allow air to pass through, and if you hang a curtain on the manhole, the dog will stop sitting in the booth: there will not be enough air for it. Therefore, either leave small gaps or provide some kind of air intake channel.
If we are to insulate, then the floor and the roof too. They are also made double, laying with the same insulation. Too large a layer of insulation should not be done: the dog itself can warm up well, besides, it has a decent fur coat. And for her, it is worse. a frequent sharp change in temperature than constant cold. If you want the dog to be warm, fill the kennel with straw for the winter: they will trample it where necessary, and throw away the excess. You need to change such a bedding twice per winter.
For the winter, a dense fabric cut into rather thick strips is nailed over the manhole. Two strips cut into noodles are fixed with a shift of the cuts. So it turns out that the wind does not blow into the dog booth, and the entrance / exit is free. But some dogs do not immediately get used to this innovation and sometimes refuse to go inside.
The outside of the booths can be painted, but not from the inside. The canopy and the wall from the wind (preferably one deaf) are treated with antiseptics. There is no point in painting them. The main thing is to make the roof without cracks so that it does not flow inside and does not blow out.
A firewood shed or woodshed is easy to do with your own hands. How to read here.
What is the width of the hole
There are recommendations regarding the width of the access hole. It is determined based on the width of the dog’s chest. Measure, add 5 cm, you get the width of the hole. The height depends on the height of the withers: you also add 5 cm to the measured value.For the puppy, first make a small hole. a little more than required, as it grows up.
The manhole in the doghouse is not located in the center, but closer to one of the walls. With such a structure, the dog will be able to hide from precipitation or wind behind a solid wall, curling up in a protected part. It is often suggested to divide the booth with a partition, making a kind of “vestibule” and sleeping area. But hiding in a fenced off compartment, the dog cannot control what is happening in the entrusted territory. Many conscientious watchmen really do not like to go there. Some, even in the most severe frosts, lie opposite the entrance, not wanting to leave the post. So, the option shown in the photo with a displaced access hole is optimal.
Another point: at the entrance to the kennel there should be a sill 10-15 cm high.It protects the dog lying in front of the entrance from wind and precipitation, prevents snow and rain from clogging inside.
The roof in the doghouse can be pitched or pitched. Shed, preferable: not very large animals like to sit / lie on it. So they can control a large area.
Another point: since there is no heating in the booth, in winter the air in it is heated by the heat generated by the body. The larger the volume, the longer the kennel will warm up. The gable roof on the kennel just significantly increases this volume, without bringing any other benefit. If you want your dog to feel good, use a pitched roof.
If you don’t like it at all in terms of aesthetics, make a ceiling, and the roof itself is already on top. over, it is advisable to make it removable or folding. on the hinges. So it will be more convenient to carry out periodic cleaning and disinfection: organic residues are clogged in the cracks, in which fleas breed. It is from them that you will have to process the kennel from time to time.
The dog booth must have a raised floor. To do this, make legs at least a few centimeters high or knock down the frame, on which floor boards are laid directly.
In general, if possible, dogs prefer to spend time outdoors. Therefore, it would be nice to make a canopy in front of the doghouse or on the side of it. And to be able to sit / lie under it. make a flooring.
In this booth, not a hinged roof, but a front wall, which is also convenient when processing.
Do-it-yourself insulated dog booth
If we talk about drawings, but the animal does not need any “bells and whistles” and too large sizes. For them, this is a burrow, but it cannot be large, by definition, and it is difficult to heat excess volumes in winter. The booth was made with two windproof walls and a small canopy.
First, they made two pallets in size with supports on four square beams, then they connected them together. It turned out to be a podium, on which the floor boards were fixed. Legs in the design are desirable. the floor will not get wet.
Bars were fixed in the corners. At the junction, six pieces turned out: four for the kennel itself, two in front for the windproof walls. First, they made the inner lining, to which they fixed 7 cm of penoplex, then sheathed it on the outside. To prevent water from flowing into the walls between the boards, the gap was closed from above with a bar of suitable width.
When cladding a wall, to which the windproof wall adjoins, the boards were used whole. so the structure is more rigid.
The longest time we fiddled with the roof. I did not want to make it completely flat, so they made an insulated shield strictly in size, which was attached to a slightly rounded roof made of type-setting rails. At least it turned out without a slope, but due to the sloping shape, the water flows off without problems. Since it was still not possible to make hermetically sealed, a film was placed under the slats.
Do-it-yourself doghouse: two photo reports video
When a dog appears in the house, the question of housing immediately arises: somewhere she must sleep and hide from the rain. Not everyone wants and can keep them in the house, because the kennel is required. A do-it-yourself dog booth is built, even without skills, in one day. Nothing complicated, but there are features.
When building a booth, you need to focus on the size of the dog
A booth from a bar for Alabai from a bar
Let’s say right away that a doghouse was built from materials left after the construction of the bath. She will also be placed next to it, because in appearance it should resemble the bath itself.
The basis of this dog booth was a drawing with the dimensions of the alabai booth. But since the dog is not an Alabai, the dimensions were made more modest. Adjustments were made to the design: a window was made in the side wall for viewing, and a door for cleaning was made at the back.
First, they built and painted a platform. from the remains of logs, which were cut and put together. Then the actual assembly of the doghouse began. First, in the workshop they planed, sawed, and the finished structure was taken out and installed in place. near the bathhouse.
The first crown was placed intact. It forms the sill and serves as a support for the entire structure. Then the timber was cut according to the scheme. Considering that the work experience was already there (the bathhouse was built), the work proceeded quickly.
Since it was supposed to make the roof a “house”, as in the bathhouse next to it, to keep the dog warm, they made a ceiling. A sheet of plywood was used for it. A dowel was made in the timber, on which a sheet of thick plywood cut to size was laid. Then they assembled and installed the roof shields.
They were not assembled according to the rules. the rafter system was not made. Since the roof is decorative, they assembled the shields, chipped them with the remains of soft tiles (they also remained from the construction of the baths), then they were connected and sheathed with gables.
Then the gables were sheathed with boards. The cracks were covered with boards. The dog house is ready. Handmade in half a day.
We are not quite Alabai and not Caucasian, but also not a very small dog.
Such a structure for a dog of this size will still be large. This kennel is designed for larger dogs. The situation can be saved only by a partition installed inside, reducing the width.
Another do-it-yourself dog booth is made of OSB, covered with a professional sheet (insulation and inner lining are planned). The assembly process was filmed.