How many fish can you keep in an aquarium
Each fish prefers a certain layer of water.
But how to determine in which layer of water the fish lives?
Look at her mouth.
If the mouth is turned upwards, then these fish prefer the upper layer of water. If it looks down, then this is a bottom breed of fish.
If the mouth is directed along the midline of the fish’s body, then this is a fish of the middle layer.
Fish need to be selected so as to evenly populate all layers in the aquarium, without overcompaction.
When talking about how many fish you can populate in an aquarium, you need to start from the volume of the aquarium, the size of the fish and the layer of water in which the fish lives.
How many fish should be in the aquarium
An interesting and difficult question for any beginner.
There is a lot of data on the Internet, often incorrect, explaining how many fish can be kept in an aquarium, based on its volume.
Having made incorrect calculations, beginners put the fish into the aquarium, not suspecting that the aquarium is overpopulated.
It seems that there is aeration and a filter is installed, but the fish get sick and die.
Beginners change water and pour in vitamins, but the fish still die.
These are the consequences of an error in calculating the number of fish and their incorrect selection.
Any aquarium fish lives in a certain layer of water.
There are fish that rush under the surface of the aquarium water, and there are those that live at the bottom.
If you run a flock of zebrafish rerio into the aquarium, and sprinkle the aquarium thickly with riccia, then do not expect anything good.
Danio prefers to be worn under the surface of the water, and it is this layer that you repacked, aggravating everything with Riccia.
If you release a flock of barbusos, gourami and scalar into the aquarium, you will get an overconsolidated middle layer of water.
Most likely, barbs will clear space for themselves by terrorizing the scalar and gourami.
Nobody said that calculating the number of fish for an aquarium is a simple matter.
How many fish should be in the aquarium
For an accurate calculation, you need to know how many liters are needed for one fish.
When calculating the number of aquarium fish, you can use the simplest formula:
- For a fish up to 5 cm long, you need 1-2 liters of water.
- A fish longer than 6 cm will require 6 liters, at the rate of one liter per centimeter of fish length.
For larger fish, add 2-3 liters per fish on top.
Please note, this data is for an aquarium with plants, aeration and a filter.
There is one point that many beginners do not know.
The larger the aquarium, the less specific liters you need per fish.
This is due to the larger surface area of the aquarium. Water is better saturated with oxygen through gas exchange on the water surface.
Do not make a communal apartment from your aquarium, even if its volume allows you to keep a large number of fish.
Fish will flicker before your eyes, and all the beauty of the aquarium will be lost.
How many fish can be placed in an aquarium
For some territorial fish, like scalars, their own corner in the aquarium is important.
A pair of scalars can take a corner of the aquarium, aggressively driving everyone out of this place.
The volume occupied by territorial fish can be deleted from the total volume of the aquarium during the final calculation of the number of fish.
When deciding the number of fish that can be kept in one aquarium, one more circumstance should be taken into account.
No need to populate pugnacious, fast and slow-swimming fish in one layer of water.
Barbs, due to their hooligan and pugnacious nature, may not get along with slow scalars or small guppies.
A newly launched new 60 liter aquarium, I stocked as follows.
Heels of medium sized barbs and mollies, a couple of catfish and 10 pieces of leopard zebrafish.
These fish live in different layers of water, and skirmishes between them are extremely rare. There is also no problem of overpopulation of the aquarium in a particular layer of water.
What I wish you too.
The article does not answer the specific question of how many fish are needed for a 20, 30 or 100 liter aquarium.
But the given data will allow you to easily calculate the number of fish for any aquarium, based on the selected fish and the volume of the aquarium.
Everyone understands that this device must certainly be in the aquarium, because without it it will not be possible to maintain cleanliness and order. There are four types of filters:
The bottom apparatus is placed under the ground, which is used as a filter element. At the same time, the soil does not sour, which is important. But the complexity of installation and further maintenance is its big drawback. It is not particularly suitable for a home aquarium. The external filter, as you already understood, is installed outside the water. And this is very convenient, since there will be no problem getting it to wash.
Another component of aquarium equipment is a heater, which is of three types:
- Bottom. it is installed in the ground, which has a beneficial effect on plants;
- External flow-through. placed outside the tank, cutting into the filter hose, which guarantees uniform heating of the water flow;
- Submersible. immersed in water up to a certain mark.
When buying, be sure to find out about its power and functionality of the thermostat (it will control the temperature itself and, if necessary, turn on and off the heating).
All you need for a home aquarium: 11 essentials
If you decide to get your own aquarium and do not know what you need, this article is for you. In it, we will tell you in detail about what an artificial reservoir should “consist of”, which means that you can simply follow our recommendations without bothering yourself with heavy thoughts. So, here is a list of 11 essential items for equipping a home aquarium.
- The aquarium itself
- Additional lighting
- Care kits
- Household chemicals
The next on the list of mandatory equipment for an aquarium is a compressor, because it is he who supplies air and aerates the water. When buying a device, pay attention to:
- Air flow adjustment.
To understand the power you need, you need to multiply the volume of the aquarium by 0.5. Usually, the package contains information about the power of the device. You can check the noiselessness only by turning on the compressor. Regarding the regulation of the air flow, it is carried out either by a valve that blocks the flow, or by changing the capacity. The second option is more economical in terms of electricity consumption and quieter.
We already know what equipment is needed for an aquarium. Now let’s move on to the question of a suitable soil. To choose the right soil for an artificial reservoir, you should adhere to several basic recommendations. Sand with a fraction of 1.5-2 mm and pebbles of 2-8 mm are considered ideal. In finer sand, water stagnates and this leads to the multiplication of “bad” bacteria. For the same reasons, you need to choose the thickness of the soil, on average it should be 4-6 cm.As for the pebbles, you should not take it with a fraction of more than 8 mm, because not only the penetration of fresh water is important for the soil, but it is also necessary that organic matter settled and was not washed out. It is not advised to choose red or yellow sand, as they contain iron, which can react with water, and limestone rocks. will increase the hardness of the water. And in general, it is recommended to stop your choice on a dark soil so that your aquarium does not look artificial and so that attention is focused on fish and plants.
If you have decided on the aquarium, let’s move on to the next important stage. choosing a cabinet for it. Of course, the tank can be placed on any other flat, stable surface, but nevertheless, the cabinet is a convenient and useful thing. In it, for example, you can store things for the care of the aquarium. When deciding to buy a curbstone, consider the main points:
- It must be moisture resistant;
- Sturdy, without problems supporting the weight of the filled tank;
- It is desirable that it be on adjustable legs.
In order to avoid deformation of the cabinet under the weight of the aquarium, some opt for a metal product. But such a curbstone will cost more.
You can really get lost in the variety of aquarium decor. Today the choice of these products is very large. Let’s consider the most basic decorations:
- Castles, caves;
- Pirate theme. ships, a chest with coins;
- Glass marbles that lie at the bottom like gems;
- Shells, sea pebbles;
- Some beautiful driftwood;
- Artificial corals.
When choosing scenery, the main thing is not to overdo it. Don’t turn your aquarium into a dump. Approach the design of the “fish house” not only with imagination, but always with taste.
The aquarium itself
Naturally, the first step is to purchase the tank itself. Let’s start the choice with the material of its manufacture. There are only two options. glass or acrylic. Each of them has its own pros and cons.
- It is cheaper than glass;
- Lighter in weight;
- It is stronger;
- There are no leaking seams in it;
- choice regarding tank shapes.
The main drawback of acrylic is that it is easy to scratch, and even one grain of sand on a cloth during wiping will be quite enough for this. Plus, cheap acrylic will turn yellow over time. Also, you will need special means for cleaning, since ordinary household chemicals will not work here, this material becomes cloudy from it, which makes an artificial reservoir more expensive.
- Cube shaped.
In addition, custom tanks are sold. cylindrical, octagonal, glass-shaped, etc. There are plenty to choose from. The main thing is to see that you like it, well, and fit into the general interior of the room where the aquarium will stand. Which tank company you choose is difficult to answer unequivocally. After all, someone can afford a more expensive model, while someone else’s finances will not give such an opportunity. The only advice is to pay attention to the equipment that comes with the aquarium. Perhaps this moment will help you make the final choice.
Some aquarists prefer artificial plants. Yes, there is no trouble with them, you just have to clean them from plaque a couple of times a year, but there will be no benefit from such plants either, but there is a lot of it from “natural product”. It’s not for nothing that living vegetation is called the “lungs” of an aquarium. it really does release oxygen, and some specimens are also food for fish, as well as a place for spawning.
The most hardy herb is Vallisneria. It takes root without problems, grows quickly, and is unpretentious in care. Thin long lime leaves of Vallisneria perfectly drape the back wall of the tank. For the middle part, creeping ludwigia, bacopa, rotalla are good. You can also put a snag with Javanese moss. The foreground will perfectly complement the dwarf anubias, which somewhat looks like a liana. It grows slowly, so it won’t bring any big worries. You can also take something from the Echinodorus. Under favorable conditions, they also bloom on the surface of the water, but flowering occurs under it.
Bad odor can be caused by poor filtration, improper aeration, overfeeding (or feeding with poor quality feed), overpopulation of the nursery, inappropriate plants, the appearance of silt or the death of the inhabitant of the reservoir. To eliminate the cause of the imbalance, it is necessary to check each item in accordance with the general recommendations.
How to change?
On average, you need to replace 1/5 of the tank volume every 7 days. A hose is used for draining. During replacement, thoroughly rinse the aquarium algae. The decorative parts are washed with hot tap water without the use of cleaning agents. For disinfection purposes, the stones can be boiled. After replacement and cleaning, stones and shells are first placed in the aquarium, then algae, after which liquid is poured in a thin stream. The fish start at the end.
The film can form under the influence of chemistry, due to the use of heating devices in the room, as well as due to organic matter, algae and soil. When using heating devices, the aquarium must be covered with a lid. The rest of the problems are solved by high-quality purification of the aquatic environment.
What water should be in the aquarium?
The water in the aquarium is one of the main ingredients. Each species of fish lives in an environment with certain parameters, both in nature and at home.
The health status of its inhabitants directly depends on what water is used for the aquarium.
Before preparing water, you need to learn how to determine its properties.
Preparation begins with settling. Water is poured into any container with the help of a shower (a shower helps to get rid of some harmful substances). If a strong smell of chlorine is felt when collecting liquid, then it is better not to use it or use it only after treatment with special dechlorinating agents. The settling process takes at least a day.
For Dutch type aquarium
The main feature of the Dutch aquarium is the large number of plants, therefore the water needs daily filtration. Fluid change should take place once a week (no more than 20%). The tank requires a thermostat (maintaining a temperature of 24-26 ° C) and an external filter that pumps twice the volume of aquarium liquid per hour. To maintain the balance of carbon dioxide, carbonated water is used, the pH value should be kept at 6.5.
Aeration directly depends on the temperature regime and the specific characteristics of the inhabitants of the aquarium. It makes it possible to control oxygen. Manufacturers offer various devices for supplying oxygen to the aquarium. Purification filters with pre-installed compressors are also used for aeration.
As part of proper water care, it is necessary to prevent excessive growth of microorganisms, dirt and films on glass. For this, algae products are used and regular cleaning is carried out.
The water in the aquarium may turn green. The reason may be massively multiplying microscopic algae (by analogy with “water bloom” in natural reservoirs). In the middle lane, this problem occurs most often in the summer, and usually the causes are direct sunlight and large organic matter in the water.
How to prepare at home?
- The aquarium is filled with fresh water, after which the filter and aeration device are turned on.
- A heater is installed (water temperature depends on fish species).
- The test checks the pH and hardness of the water, which must be adjusted according to the requirements of the fish.
- Next, beneficial bacteria are added, after which the water is ready for use.
Salt treatment of fish and how to carry out salt baths?
Aquarium fish are cute and helpless creatures that need the care of their owner. Noticing that pets are sick, aquarists, not trusting drugs, prefer to treat the fish in the general aquarium with folk remedies. Aquarium salt is one of the most reliable and proven products that can free your fish from many diseases. Some owners of artificial reservoirs prefer to add salt to the water in the aquarium to treat fish with salt, others use saline solutions.
For what diseases is salt used
Salt in the aquarium is not used to create salt water, but for prevention. The product is added to the tank for the following purposes:
- Elimination of the effects of stress in fish. Aquarium salt helps pets recover from osmoregulatory stress that causes salt or mineral imbalances. Adding salt to the reservoir fluid will restore the normal concentration.
- Improved blood flow. to achieve this goal, aquarists add salt to the reservoir.
- Prevention of parasites. in this case, a large dosage of the product is used for a short time, then replacing part of the water.
In addition to preventive purposes, the owners of artificial reservoirs use salting of water in an aquarium to treat many diseases. Noticing that pets behave anxiously: they refuse food, lie on the bottom or float to the surface of the water, you should immediately check the parameters of the fish keeping:
- The amount of nitrates.
If the indicators are in order, saline solutions come to the aid of the owners. a proven and reliable tool. Treatment of fish with salt is possible if the pets have diseases:
- Saprolegniosis is a fungal disease, the obvious symptoms of which are the formation of a light-colored plaque in the mouth area and on the fins.
- Costiosis. is considered an invasive disease. The disease can be identified by the white spots that “decorate” the body of the phenotypes. Over time, the spots transform into a gray bloom.
- Trichodinosis. the causative agents of the disease are parasitic ciliates. Spots and plaque form on the trunk of infected fish, the skin peels off and falls off.
- Fin rot is a common infectious disease in aquarium fish. With fin rot, the fins of the phenotype are destroyed and fall off, the body is covered with specks of a light or scarlet shade.
- Ichthyophthyroidism. ciliates are the causative agents of ichthyophthyriosis. White specks on the body of the fish are considered a sign of the disease.
Also, therapeutic baths are used to treat oodiniumosis, tetrachimenosis, gyrodactylosis.
Many aquarists prefer to use salt baths to treat pets, which will help cure the fish and not harm other inhabitants of the tank.
Recommendations and rules for using baths:
- A bath with a concentration of 2.5% in 8-10 minutes is able to eliminate parasites and bacteria. After using such a solution, the pet must be bathed in a weak bath. salt 1 liter of liquid ½ tsp.
- To disinfect an aquarium with decorations, the concentration must be 5%. It should be noted that such a proportion will kill all living things in the tank, therefore fish, mollusc plants are removed from the tank before the procedure.
- When using a bath for the treatment of fin rot or other diseases, the fish are not returned to the old aquarium immediately, otherwise, due to the high concentration of salt in the scales, they may break. After the bath, fresh water must be added to the same container to reduce the amount of product in the liquid.
- Salt should not be poured directly into the tank. the particles will dissolve for a long time, therefore it is necessary to use a prepared solution.
Salt baths can be short-term. from one minute to 25 minutes, and long-term. 10 days or more. When using salt baths, it should be borne in mind that long-term exposure to the product reveals a negative effect on the kidneys of fish.
Before learning how to treat fish in an aquarium, and how much salt to use, you should read the rules for using the product:
- Iodized product must not be used for the aquarium.
- To treat pets with saline solutions, two days before applying the mixture, the temperature is increased to 28-30C.
- In salted water with a strong concentration, many fish species do not survive, therefore the concentration of the product in the solution should be 1.5-2%.
Duration of taking a bath. 10-20 minutes.
- Treatment of aquarium fish with salt is carried out only in settled liquid. You cannot put all pets in the medicinal baths at once, you should choose a couple of sick fish and carry out the procedure.
- The course of treatment for diseases such as fin rot is 7 to 30 days. The exact number of days depends on the degree of illness and the course.
When you can’t use salt
Many aquarists speculate about whether to use salt to treat fish if the species doesn’t like it. It should be clarified that some types of fish do not withstand salt baths and solutions, therefore this method of treatment is not suitable for the following species:
- Sumatran barbus;
- Young labyrinth fish.
It should be noted that only salt cannot be used for the treatment of serious diseases. the product is used as an adjuvant in case of serious illnesses. If, after using saline solutions, pets do not feel better, you must stop the procedure and seek help from specialists.
Treatment of fish with salt is considered a reliable and safe method that allows you to quickly get rid of parasites, diseases and disinfect an artificial reservoir. When choosing this method of treatment, you should follow the dosage and rules for using the baths so as not to harm the pets.
Types of aquarium heaters
In order to be able to create the most comfortable living conditions for fish and plants, special devices are used. aquarium heaters. There are several types of them, but the principle of operation is the same for all. electrical heating of the element in a sealed environment. The most commonly used heaters are:
Submersible (plastic, glass, titanium). Consists of a heating element built into a shock-resistant, heat-resistant housing in the form of a flask or an elongated cylinder, and is designed to be lowered into an aqueous environment.
Flowing. Has a plastic housing and is mounted vertically on the return hose of an external filter, which saves internal space and creates a flow of warm, aerated water.
Heating cables. Installed under the ground and allow you to evenly warm up the entire aquarium, create additional water circulation.
Heating mats. They are rectangular mats that are installed under the aquarium. The heat generated evenly passes through the bottom and raises the water temperature.
It is generally accepted that sufficient power of the heating device should correspond to 1 W per liter, but in practice 0.7-0.8 W per liter is often used.
How to install a heater in an aquarium
The heater is waterproof and can be installed in the aquarium both vertically. with the adjustment knob above the water mirror, or horizontally. completely submerged. Do not insert the heater into sand or gravel. The water level must always be above the minimum immersion level, the MINIMUM WATER LEVEL mark on the heater body. Remember that the water level is constantly dropping as a result of evaporation. The heater is attached to the wall of the aquarium using a bracket with two suction cups, which should be attached to the heater directly below the head. The heater should be fixed in the aquarium in a place where the water can circulate continuously and evenly. ATTENTION! Only about 15 minutes after installing the heater in the aquarium, when the temperature of the bimetallic switch in the heater equals the temperature of the water in the aquarium, can the heater be connected to the mains supply.
|Aquarium volume, l||The difference between the temperatures of the water in the aquarium and in the room, ° С|
Our pick of the three best aquarium heaters from aliexpress. Aquarium heater and everything you need to know about it.
Therefore, it is best to purchase heaters “with a margin”, that is, more powerful. Such heaters can easily and quickly cope with a drop in temperature, work smoothly, without overheating and last much longer. But powerful heaters must be of high quality.
It will also be useful to know that the cost of a heater does not particularly depend on its power, and energy consumption, too. The whole question is in the reliability of the device, i.e., the thermostat and the heating element. If the thermostat of a powerful heater breaks down, the inhabitants of the aquarium have two uncomfortable options. to die either from the cold or from an unusually high water temperature. Some, in order to avoid such sad consequences, purchase 2 medium-power heaters. If one thermostat fails, another will support the optimal habitat. If one of the thermostats breaks down, the water will not reach the critical temperature, and the fish will eventually be fine. But, as you know, good is not cheap. A couple of quality heaters will cost you twice as much as one simple one. The choice is yours.
Aquarium heater 25W / 300W
This heating rod can provide the heat you need and keep the water temperature inside the tank. It can automatically adjust the temperature just like the fish in the aquarium need.
Temperature scale can be adjusted between 20
93 ° F).
Fully submersible, waterproof double insulation, durable and safe design.
Power indicator, ensure safe operation.
Can automatically adjust the temperature, good for fish in the aquarium.
Plug: EU plug
Power: 25W / 50W / 100W / 200W / 300W (optional)
Frequency: 50/60 Hz
Temperature range: 20
93 ° F
25w: 20.5cm / 8in
50w: 21cm / 8.27in
100 W: 25.5cm / 10in
200 W: 29cm / 11.43in
300 W: 29cm / 11.43in
Cable length: approx. 85cm / 33.5in
25W: 26.574cm / 10.42.761.57in (L W H)
50 W: 26.574 cm / 10.42.761.57 in (L W H)
100 W: 30.574 cm / 122.761.57 in (L W H)
200 W: 36.574 cm / 14.42.761.57 in (L W H)
300 W: 36.574 cm / 14.42.761.57 in (L W H)
Package Weight: 170g
DIY aquarium heater
When making such a device, it must be remembered that its operating conditions are associated with a serious risk of electric shock.
But if the decision is made in favor of handicraft, then there is a good option with the creation of a structure from resistors (resistances), a piece of glass tube with thick walls, dry filler and an external thermostat. Installation work takes place in the following order.
1. The power of the heating element is determined on the basis of a special table, which takes into account the temperature difference between the required temperature in the aquarium and room temperature. The required amperage is calculated by dividing the selected power by the applied voltage. By dividing the voltage used by the calculated amperage, you can get the heater resistance value. The required number of identical resistors is selected so that their total power and resistance indicator corresponds to the calculated values.
2. The length and diameter of the glass tube is determined based on the size and number of resistances.
3. In the role of filler, you can use cleaned from litter and calcined sand.
4. The bottom of the glass tube is closed with a suitable rubber stopper placed on the aquarium sealant.
5. The ends of the network cable are soldered to the upper and lower resistors. The entire structure is placed in a tube and covered with sand. It is important that the sand is at the bottom of the tube and covers the top resistor.
6. The top of the tube is carefully sealed with aquarium sealant. The power cable is connected to a thermostat with an external temperature sensor, which in turn is placed in the aquarium.
7. The heater is placed vertically so that the part of the tube containing the resistors is hidden under water. The structure is attached to the wall of the aquarium using special suction cups.
Also, manufacturing schemes have been developed for the thermostat itself, based on a comparator and thermistors.
Aquarium heater with thermostat
The main inconvenience when using the heater is associated with the need to constantly monitor its operation. Even after reaching the desired water temperature, the device still continues to function and must be disconnected from the network manually.
To get rid of this problem, a special device is used. a thermostat, which is a device with a built-in temperature sensor. It allows you to turn off the heating element when a preset value is reached and turn it on again when the water starts to cool.
Thus, a stable microclimate is achieved without temperature drops. The use of modern technologies allows the manufacture of very compact and easy-to-use thermostats.
By manufacturing technology, they are divided into two types.
Electronic. They are highly accurate (most of them are equipped with information boards). The disadvantages include the relative high cost and lack of reliability.
Mechanical. They are found most often, differ in stability and reliability during operation, at a cheaper price. They often distort real readings by several degrees, so a separate thermometer must be used to fine-tune the device.
According to the level of safety during operation and durability of operation of devices, thermostats are divided into:
- Remote. located outside the aquarium, not influenced by the aquatic environment and waste products of aquatic organisms. This increases their service life and makes it possible to use cheaper heaters and replace them without additional costs. To determine the operating mode, a separate temperature sensor is used, which is located in the aquarium and is connected with a wire to the thermostat.
- Built-in. they are mounted in a sealed housing together with a heating element. With this configuration, the entire water control and heating system becomes very compact and easy to use.
The latter type of construction is most popular among aquarists and is often made in the form of an elongated glass bulb, inside which is an electric heater and thermostat. For greater thermal conductivity, the space of the flask is filled with the smallest ceramic filler.
The tightness of the structure is provided by a rubberized or plastic cap through which the power cable passes. There is also a regulator that allows you to set the required temperature.
Well-known brands of aquarium equipment. Eheim, Fluval, Ferplast, Aquael, Tetra. produce reliable and high-quality immersion heaters for aquariums with a thermostat of 25 to 300 W. Such devices are capable of providing the necessary conditions in aquariums up to 1500 liters.
In the case when it is not possible to purchase the necessary equipment, you can make it yourself.
Using a water heater
The heaters are manufactured in accordance with the current safety standards. It is allowed to connect the heater only to an electrical network with parameters corresponding to those indicated on the heater itself and its packaging. It is forbidden to turn on the heater removed from the water. ALWAYS DISCONNECT the voltage before each operation connected to the heater. Before placing your hand in the water, make sure that the heater and all electrical appliances in the aquarium are unplugged. Do not use a damaged heater or a heater with a damaged wire. The connecting wire must not be changed or repaired, in which case the entire heater must be replaced. Also, DO NOT MOUNT THE SWITCH on the wire.
The water level must always be above the minimum immersion level, the MINIMUM WATER LEVEL mark on the heater body. The maximum immersion depth of the heater is 80 cm. The heater is intended for indoor use only and exclusively in aquariums.
Stainless Steel Aquarium Heater with LCD Digital Thermometer
Ideal Aquarium Temperature Controller Kit Consists of: Stainless Steel Water Heater and Immersion LCD Thermometer.
Both are fully submersible, waterproof double insulated, durable and safe design.
The easy-to-read LCD display for this thermometer makes it easy to keep track of the temperature in your aquarium.
The convector switches off automatically when the temperature is reached. Sensitive and reliable thermostat maintains uniform temperature.
Model: Submersible Aquarium Heater
Material: stainless steel
AC input: 220V, 50Hz
Power: 50W, 100W, 200W, 300W, 500W
Temperature range: 16-32 degrees Celsius
Heater Length: 16cm / 29cm / 29cm / 35cm / 35cm
Protective cover: 6 pieces, free stitching, adjustable length 15-42 cm.
Suit for aquarium:
50 W: less than 50 liters of water, about 20 × 30 cm
100W: 50-100L of water, about 40 × 60cm
200W: 100-200L of water, about 60 × 80cm
300W: 150-300L of water, about 80 × 100cm 500W: 250-500L of water, about 130 × 150cm
Color: black silver
Material: ABS plastic
Display: LCD digital display
Temperature range: 0 ° C to 50 ° C
Default setting for alarm: maximum: 28 ° C; lowest: 18 ° C
Power: 11.5V AG13 Button Battery (not included)
Suction cup diameter: 3cm / 1.2in
Item size: 503020mm / 1.971.2 0.8in
Item Weight: 26g / 0.92oz.
Packing size: 45x15x10cm
Package weight: 370g-510g
The package includes:
1 x Submersible Aquarium Water Heater
1 x EU / UK / AU adapter according to your address